On Friday, we a day in Kolar Gold Fields that can really only happen in India. We started the day by listening to the stories of a couple of women staying at Wimochina, a women's shelter that we, too, had stayed at. Their stories were fascinating, but they were interrupted when one of the women spotted a scorpion in Kirk's shoe, ready to sting. Kirk reached to poke it, but the woman exclaimed "NOOOO! You will die." I was stunned to hear that. It seems so strange that something so innocent and free like a scorpion could kill someone. As it turns out, the scorpion wouldn't have killed Kirk; it would have put him through some extreme pain though.
After listening to the women speak, we packed up our stuff and headed to the bus to go back to Bangalore. Problem: the bus was stuck in the mud and had nestled itself in about half a foot deep trying to get out. Dr. Kittelson looked more anxious than usual, but I think we all knew that it wasn't actually a concern. These things happen in India; the problem would be fixed. The knowledge of all the people standing around regarding how to get un-stick stuck vehicles was pooled and with the use of a couple of wooden boards and the maximum strength of about 2o people we got the bus out. We drove the 60 miles back to Bangalore in about three hours, meaning we made good time for Indian roads.
A few of us decided we wanted to get some ice cream, so we got out of the bus in the village near Visthar. The store we had planned to go to was closed. Why wouldn't it be? I mean - 4 o'clock on a Friday afternoon. That seems like prime closing time... Instead we went to a much smaller store. I bought something called a "Chocolate Nutty" from the guy. It was a chocolate coated ice cream stick. The ice cream had rose water in it. Again, why not? Rose water makes everything better doesn't it? We walked back to Visthar through some very squishy mud. Although India has a monsoon every year, the roads around the area are made of dirt, so every time it rains, it's more like walking along the shore of a beach than it is like walking on any road I'm used to.
At 6 pm we left to go eat dinner at a local politician's "restaurant". It was important for us to leave on time so that we could be there at 7:15 as we had scheduled with him. We were there at 7:15; he came at 9:30. His flight was delayed. There were about 20 of us there and they had around 16 bottles of Kingfisher wine there for us. While we waited, we talked to some of the other random assortment of people there. I talked to "Guru", a man who studied in the United States and now works in politics in India, though he doesn't seem to know what his job actually is. I asked him several times, but somehow he always managed to redirect the conversation to the wild Friday nights he had while in the United States. After food (delicious! the spiciest I've had yet in India), we exchanged a couple of songs and then we decided to sing the song "We Shall Overcome" all together since we would all know the song, Americans and Indians alike. I had never heard the song before in my life, yet all of the Indians in the room knew the words. Love it when that happens!
Oh India...
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Eid el Fitr
I have little to report from a pretty uneventful Eid, but I'm posting anyway since Tant Nivo told me to.
No mosques have women's sections in India. In the morning yesterday the boys in our group went to the prayer at a mosque, and the girls just hung around. I walked into town and picked up some cookies from a bakery to bring to Asma's house. Asma is the sister of Sham, a Muslim man who works for Visthar, and we went to her house for lunch. It was delicious and it was nice to spend some time with a family on Eid, even if that family was not my own. After lunch we came back to Visthar and continuued class. Driving through the streets, you might not have guessed that it was a holiday. The only indication that it might be a holiday was that there were a few stores closed. Wish I had something more exciting to say...
No mosques have women's sections in India. In the morning yesterday the boys in our group went to the prayer at a mosque, and the girls just hung around. I walked into town and picked up some cookies from a bakery to bring to Asma's house. Asma is the sister of Sham, a Muslim man who works for Visthar, and we went to her house for lunch. It was delicious and it was nice to spend some time with a family on Eid, even if that family was not my own. After lunch we came back to Visthar and continuued class. Driving through the streets, you might not have guessed that it was a holiday. The only indication that it might be a holiday was that there were a few stores closed. Wish I had something more exciting to say...
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Coping with Koppal
Okay...the title has little to do with the post, I just couldn't think of a good name...
We spent all of last week in Koppal. A poorer district in Northern Karnataka. Our purpose there was to help build a school for children of women who are a part of the Davedasi (temple priest) system. Unfortunately (or actually fortunately I guess since the region had a poor monsoon season this year) it rained almost the whole time we were there, so we weren't able to build much. The building we did do was great though. Some of the young girls who will be attending the school helped out and one day we got to talk to some of their mothers who were visiting. A good experience all around.
During the week we also went to Hampi, a city built around the 6th century I think. It was a neat place. On the main temple there are statues of women in erotic positions. Our tour guide explained that this was so that the visitor's eye would be drawn to those images and not to the rest of the temple to prevent people from being jealous of the temple and therefore bringing bad luck upon it. Interesting. A few people got blessed by the temple elephant who was trained to tap people on the head when it was given money. Market and religion, anyone? On that day, we visited Hampi University, a small Master's and Ph. D. program university that is working to preserve the culture of the area. We ran into a couple of arts students who showed us around which was great. I got to talking with Veena, one of the arts students. It was great to connect with someone close to my own age.
On another day we went to a village and saw people working on a handloom and then people working on a machine loom. On the handloom, the man has to pump two pedals continuously and push a handle thing back and forth over and over again for ten hours a day. On the machine loom, a man stands and makes sure the thread doesn't get caught. I have often heard that we should try to support the handloom industry and I heard that again on that day. I have a hard time understanding why now. I can see that, since handlooming is slower, it can employ more people, but it employs more people in back-breakingly hard physical labor. If the alternative is unemployment, I can see why that would be preferable, but isn't there a way that people can have jobs and decent conditions? Then the next day, we went to a human hair processing plant. There men and women comb through hair and sort it by length to send it to factories that make wigs. Vishwasagar, our guide for the day, kept telling us about how they don't have their rights and so on, but the women were sitting close to each other and laughing and joking with each other. There labor was hard, but it didn't require massive amounts of physical exertion. They can talk while they work. I'm having a hard time understanding why I'm supposed to consider that work less ethical than the handloom work.
By far, the hardest thing for me to process this week was our visit to a village of about 45o families, 100 of whom are dalit families. For a while, we exchanged songs and questions with each other which was nice. When the Q & A was done, we went around to homes in the village. At each home, Vishwasagar would do his best to point out just how poor each family was. He would pick up food to show us that it was old. He would show us the pots and tell us how they were metal and not clay, a sign of real poverty. At one point, he poured out some of their food to show us how thin it was. I felt awful that we were treating people as objects. The people and homes of that village turned into our textbooks. We exploited their gracious hospitality by going through their homes and objectifying them, pitying them for their lives. We heard nothing positive about their lives because the purpose of our visit was to see despair.
I hated this visit for several reasons. One, we are learning in class here in India that what India needs is to be village-centered. If that is village life, then why?? Why why why why why? At least in a city, new jobs are constantly cropping up. Although moving there would probably mean poverty, there is a chance of upward movement. Where is that chance in villages? I feel as though this is another instance of those of us who are already well-off saying that others can't become well-off because that wouldn't allow us to continue to live our comfortable lives. Second, people just can't objectify other people like that. Other members of the group said it was nice because we connected with them before visiting their homes, but we didn't really. We asked them questions to determine just how poor they are relative to us and they asked us questions to determine just how great life is for us. Is that connecting? We sat on opposite sides of the room. Third, I realized that day that this is what the program I signed up for is. The program's purpose is to show us how awful life can be, so that we carry that away with us and consider it as we go off into our careers. This isn't a cultural exchange. The hope of this program is not that I would build relationships with Indians but that I would see just how many and how deep problems are in India. It's like an extended mission trip except we are basically only viewing the problems, not doing anything to alleviate them. This isn't a fault of the program, per se. There are people who enjoy that kind of program, who are looking for that kind of program. I just should have looked more into what the program actually is before I signed up for it. Now I need to adjust my expectations of this study abroad experience. I need to accept the fact that I'm not going to connect on a real level with Indians, that's not what's it about. That's a hard thing to do.
In other news, today in most of the world but tomorrow in India is Eid el-Fitr. Ramadan in India has been semi-hard, but only because various people who work for Visthar have continually been recommending that I not fast on a large variety of occasions. It was frustrating that in a country that has way more Muslims than the United States does, I got a lot more flack about fasting. Strange how that works. I realize that the Visthar staff members were just concerned for me that I would be too tired; they just don't realize that I've been fasting and completely participating in regular life for ten years. Anyway, I have about eight days to make up. This is my first Eid not with family. Not a big deal though. It will be fun to see how Eid is celebrated here. The guys are going to the prayer tomorrow, but not the women because no mosques in India have women sections. Is it just me or is that uncommon in most places in the Muslim world? I mean, in Egypt not all mosques have women's sections and they're never anywhere near the size of the men's sections but they exist, don't they? Please comment if you know. That's okay though. I don't mind not going to the mosque; that means I get a free morning. In the afternoon, Dr. Kittelson says we are going to the house of Sham - a Muslim Visthar staff member. I like Sham and the members of his family who I've met before, so that should be fun.
We spent all of last week in Koppal. A poorer district in Northern Karnataka. Our purpose there was to help build a school for children of women who are a part of the Davedasi (temple priest) system. Unfortunately (or actually fortunately I guess since the region had a poor monsoon season this year) it rained almost the whole time we were there, so we weren't able to build much. The building we did do was great though. Some of the young girls who will be attending the school helped out and one day we got to talk to some of their mothers who were visiting. A good experience all around.
During the week we also went to Hampi, a city built around the 6th century I think. It was a neat place. On the main temple there are statues of women in erotic positions. Our tour guide explained that this was so that the visitor's eye would be drawn to those images and not to the rest of the temple to prevent people from being jealous of the temple and therefore bringing bad luck upon it. Interesting. A few people got blessed by the temple elephant who was trained to tap people on the head when it was given money. Market and religion, anyone? On that day, we visited Hampi University, a small Master's and Ph. D. program university that is working to preserve the culture of the area. We ran into a couple of arts students who showed us around which was great. I got to talking with Veena, one of the arts students. It was great to connect with someone close to my own age.
On another day we went to a village and saw people working on a handloom and then people working on a machine loom. On the handloom, the man has to pump two pedals continuously and push a handle thing back and forth over and over again for ten hours a day. On the machine loom, a man stands and makes sure the thread doesn't get caught. I have often heard that we should try to support the handloom industry and I heard that again on that day. I have a hard time understanding why now. I can see that, since handlooming is slower, it can employ more people, but it employs more people in back-breakingly hard physical labor. If the alternative is unemployment, I can see why that would be preferable, but isn't there a way that people can have jobs and decent conditions? Then the next day, we went to a human hair processing plant. There men and women comb through hair and sort it by length to send it to factories that make wigs. Vishwasagar, our guide for the day, kept telling us about how they don't have their rights and so on, but the women were sitting close to each other and laughing and joking with each other. There labor was hard, but it didn't require massive amounts of physical exertion. They can talk while they work. I'm having a hard time understanding why I'm supposed to consider that work less ethical than the handloom work.
By far, the hardest thing for me to process this week was our visit to a village of about 45o families, 100 of whom are dalit families. For a while, we exchanged songs and questions with each other which was nice. When the Q & A was done, we went around to homes in the village. At each home, Vishwasagar would do his best to point out just how poor each family was. He would pick up food to show us that it was old. He would show us the pots and tell us how they were metal and not clay, a sign of real poverty. At one point, he poured out some of their food to show us how thin it was. I felt awful that we were treating people as objects. The people and homes of that village turned into our textbooks. We exploited their gracious hospitality by going through their homes and objectifying them, pitying them for their lives. We heard nothing positive about their lives because the purpose of our visit was to see despair.
I hated this visit for several reasons. One, we are learning in class here in India that what India needs is to be village-centered. If that is village life, then why?? Why why why why why? At least in a city, new jobs are constantly cropping up. Although moving there would probably mean poverty, there is a chance of upward movement. Where is that chance in villages? I feel as though this is another instance of those of us who are already well-off saying that others can't become well-off because that wouldn't allow us to continue to live our comfortable lives. Second, people just can't objectify other people like that. Other members of the group said it was nice because we connected with them before visiting their homes, but we didn't really. We asked them questions to determine just how poor they are relative to us and they asked us questions to determine just how great life is for us. Is that connecting? We sat on opposite sides of the room. Third, I realized that day that this is what the program I signed up for is. The program's purpose is to show us how awful life can be, so that we carry that away with us and consider it as we go off into our careers. This isn't a cultural exchange. The hope of this program is not that I would build relationships with Indians but that I would see just how many and how deep problems are in India. It's like an extended mission trip except we are basically only viewing the problems, not doing anything to alleviate them. This isn't a fault of the program, per se. There are people who enjoy that kind of program, who are looking for that kind of program. I just should have looked more into what the program actually is before I signed up for it. Now I need to adjust my expectations of this study abroad experience. I need to accept the fact that I'm not going to connect on a real level with Indians, that's not what's it about. That's a hard thing to do.
In other news, today in most of the world but tomorrow in India is Eid el-Fitr. Ramadan in India has been semi-hard, but only because various people who work for Visthar have continually been recommending that I not fast on a large variety of occasions. It was frustrating that in a country that has way more Muslims than the United States does, I got a lot more flack about fasting. Strange how that works. I realize that the Visthar staff members were just concerned for me that I would be too tired; they just don't realize that I've been fasting and completely participating in regular life for ten years. Anyway, I have about eight days to make up. This is my first Eid not with family. Not a big deal though. It will be fun to see how Eid is celebrated here. The guys are going to the prayer tomorrow, but not the women because no mosques in India have women sections. Is it just me or is that uncommon in most places in the Muslim world? I mean, in Egypt not all mosques have women's sections and they're never anywhere near the size of the men's sections but they exist, don't they? Please comment if you know. That's okay though. I don't mind not going to the mosque; that means I get a free morning. In the afternoon, Dr. Kittelson says we are going to the house of Sham - a Muslim Visthar staff member. I like Sham and the members of his family who I've met before, so that should be fun.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Turkey is not Egypt (posted by Mona, Ayah's mom)
Turkey is so much like Egypt too, but yet different. I think the Eastern and Muslim/partly Muslim cultures share common features and yet are distinct from each other.
Izmir & Istanbul remind me of Cairo so much. Either the Ottomans left permanent marks on Egypt's culture or they absorbed Egyptian culture & brought it back to their homeland. Probably a little bit of both. And the Turks I met so far are not at all like the ones we see in the series. More like the Egyptians i met in Cairo. They are very friendly and simple and down to earth. And they mostly have dark hair and eyes. Most look kinda like dad (your dad). Lots of poverty and homelessness around here too, although probably a little less than Egypt. They even have 3shwa2ee neighborhoods in Istanbul. They call them “gecekonde” which means overnight i.e. they were erected overnight without much planning and so they lack sewage & proper infrastructure..The men don't hassle women on the streets but they do stare and there are hardly any females on the streets after dark in Izmir. A lot more women wear scarves than i expected to see, but the mosques in Izmir are practically empty at prayer times and there are hardly any Ramazan festivities in Izmir. Although i saw ads for coca cola and ice cream on TV that referred to Ramazan. I have yet to go inside a mosque at prayer time in Istanbul, although around Friday prayer time they seemed inhabited from what I could tell from my tram window. At Iftar time they offer free food for those who want in Istanbul. There is a big tent right by the Bosphorus and a huge line of people waiting to get in to eat Iftar for free. Nice touch.
I don't know how but the air smells like Egypt and the stray dogs barking in the streets and the cars honking their horns and the little coffee houses in alleys with men smoking shisha & playing backgammon all remind me of Egypt. (by the way shisha is a turkish word that means “bottle” as in “shisha su” for “bottle of water”and is not used to refer to the smoking pipe here). Also, no street names on most streets, people don't know where things are on the map & don't know street names & give you wrong directions. I feel so at home. The hotel in Izmir even had the pitch black staircase that we are so used to from living in teta's house. Good thing I brought a tiny key-chain type flashlight ;) They do have light in it, but it is motion sensitive & it is set to turn on only when you are directly below the bulb, and for only one second. There are so many energy-saving practices here. I love it. The room's lights and air conditioning are also set to turn off if you leave the room & take your key out of its holder. There is little or no parking on most streets and around most buildings, so people just ride public transportation instead of polluting the environment driving their individual cars. The soap and shampoo in bathrooms are in dispensers so there is no waste of half used little plastic bottles. The paper napkins are tiny and thin and simple, just enough for what you will use them for. No fancy frills. The elevators and waste baskets are tiny, inviting people to use the stairs and to not throw away stuff.
Here are some surreal experiences I had in Izmir & Istanbul:
The Turkish audience at my presentation in Izmir (which went well & attracted lots of discussion from the Turkish people) were all excited about watching season 2 of Kivanc's new series (Ask i Memnu or AIM as the fans call it) that night at 8 on Turkish TV. Here the episodes are aired once per week. There was a conference-organized social gathering at the same time but the Turkish participants said they were not coming because they want to stay home and watch Kıvanc. They are all crazy about his looks. They said they don't care about Songul (the female lead in Gumus) because she does not have blond hair or blue eyes and she is older than Kıvo....interesting how open they are about their euro-centric biases. I got back to my hotel at around 10:30 that night and found AIM still airing on TV. It was kind of surreal to watch it live in Turkey. And i actually understood a lot of the dialogue. It is amazing how fast language is acquired with immersion especially here because Turks don't know any English and even those working in hotels and airports have very little English (although in Instanbul there is a little bit more English used than Izmir). So i found myself just using all the vocabulary i thought i don't have that i picked up from watching Kivo's series and from my Beginner's Turkish book.
And here is the second odd experience: I met with a travel agent yesterday to plan the turkey trip for the summer course and when i told her about what i came to turkey for she literally jumped out of her chair. She is a big fan of kivo and thinks he is the best looking guy in Turkey. And she just met him last month in Konya where she was visiting a friend. She showed me a picture she took of the friend's 10 yr old daughter with kivo. And...she knows a writer of Gumus. A guy who wrote the first 10 episodes or so then quit to work on other projects. He writes for the theater and does magic shows. She said that if there had been enough time she would have had him contact the Gumus main writers and arrange a meeting for me with them. She also said Kivanc played basketball on the same team as her cousin and went to school with her sister in law's husband. I can't believe how small the world is.
Istanbul is a dream city. I am totally and completely in love. So beautiful. So much character. And it is so alive, not like the dead ancient sites of Paris. Here in SultanAhmet area people live on and in and under and around history. They don't even bother to learn the name of the ancient site they are living or working next to, because every meter has ancient history in it. It is a magical area. Truly enchanting! Just like old Cairo and Azhar area in Egypt, or the big Medina in Tunisia & Morocco, or the hilly old town in Greece where we had our beloved Crepe....but Istanbul combines the best features of all these places: It is clean, picturesque, well maintained, lively with endless crowds of locals & visitors, safe, and well served with orderly public trams and buses.
I attended a dervish dance/prayer performed at an old restored mosque. Awesome. I walked/rode by all the historical sites in the old city (SultanAhmet) but did not stop to visit any yet. Istanbul can easily take a whole month to see. I am frustrated by how little time i have here. I'll just have to come again...
Izmir & Istanbul remind me of Cairo so much. Either the Ottomans left permanent marks on Egypt's culture or they absorbed Egyptian culture & brought it back to their homeland. Probably a little bit of both. And the Turks I met so far are not at all like the ones we see in the series. More like the Egyptians i met in Cairo. They are very friendly and simple and down to earth. And they mostly have dark hair and eyes. Most look kinda like dad (your dad). Lots of poverty and homelessness around here too, although probably a little less than Egypt. They even have 3shwa2ee neighborhoods in Istanbul. They call them “gecekonde” which means overnight i.e. they were erected overnight without much planning and so they lack sewage & proper infrastructure..The men don't hassle women on the streets but they do stare and there are hardly any females on the streets after dark in Izmir. A lot more women wear scarves than i expected to see, but the mosques in Izmir are practically empty at prayer times and there are hardly any Ramazan festivities in Izmir. Although i saw ads for coca cola and ice cream on TV that referred to Ramazan. I have yet to go inside a mosque at prayer time in Istanbul, although around Friday prayer time they seemed inhabited from what I could tell from my tram window. At Iftar time they offer free food for those who want in Istanbul. There is a big tent right by the Bosphorus and a huge line of people waiting to get in to eat Iftar for free. Nice touch.
I don't know how but the air smells like Egypt and the stray dogs barking in the streets and the cars honking their horns and the little coffee houses in alleys with men smoking shisha & playing backgammon all remind me of Egypt. (by the way shisha is a turkish word that means “bottle” as in “shisha su” for “bottle of water”and is not used to refer to the smoking pipe here). Also, no street names on most streets, people don't know where things are on the map & don't know street names & give you wrong directions. I feel so at home. The hotel in Izmir even had the pitch black staircase that we are so used to from living in teta's house. Good thing I brought a tiny key-chain type flashlight ;) They do have light in it, but it is motion sensitive & it is set to turn on only when you are directly below the bulb, and for only one second. There are so many energy-saving practices here. I love it. The room's lights and air conditioning are also set to turn off if you leave the room & take your key out of its holder. There is little or no parking on most streets and around most buildings, so people just ride public transportation instead of polluting the environment driving their individual cars. The soap and shampoo in bathrooms are in dispensers so there is no waste of half used little plastic bottles. The paper napkins are tiny and thin and simple, just enough for what you will use them for. No fancy frills. The elevators and waste baskets are tiny, inviting people to use the stairs and to not throw away stuff.
Here are some surreal experiences I had in Izmir & Istanbul:
The Turkish audience at my presentation in Izmir (which went well & attracted lots of discussion from the Turkish people) were all excited about watching season 2 of Kivanc's new series (Ask i Memnu or AIM as the fans call it) that night at 8 on Turkish TV. Here the episodes are aired once per week. There was a conference-organized social gathering at the same time but the Turkish participants said they were not coming because they want to stay home and watch Kıvanc. They are all crazy about his looks. They said they don't care about Songul (the female lead in Gumus) because she does not have blond hair or blue eyes and she is older than Kıvo....interesting how open they are about their euro-centric biases. I got back to my hotel at around 10:30 that night and found AIM still airing on TV. It was kind of surreal to watch it live in Turkey. And i actually understood a lot of the dialogue. It is amazing how fast language is acquired with immersion especially here because Turks don't know any English and even those working in hotels and airports have very little English (although in Instanbul there is a little bit more English used than Izmir). So i found myself just using all the vocabulary i thought i don't have that i picked up from watching Kivo's series and from my Beginner's Turkish book.
And here is the second odd experience: I met with a travel agent yesterday to plan the turkey trip for the summer course and when i told her about what i came to turkey for she literally jumped out of her chair. She is a big fan of kivo and thinks he is the best looking guy in Turkey. And she just met him last month in Konya where she was visiting a friend. She showed me a picture she took of the friend's 10 yr old daughter with kivo. And...she knows a writer of Gumus. A guy who wrote the first 10 episodes or so then quit to work on other projects. He writes for the theater and does magic shows. She said that if there had been enough time she would have had him contact the Gumus main writers and arrange a meeting for me with them. She also said Kivanc played basketball on the same team as her cousin and went to school with her sister in law's husband. I can't believe how small the world is.
Istanbul is a dream city. I am totally and completely in love. So beautiful. So much character. And it is so alive, not like the dead ancient sites of Paris. Here in SultanAhmet area people live on and in and under and around history. They don't even bother to learn the name of the ancient site they are living or working next to, because every meter has ancient history in it. It is a magical area. Truly enchanting! Just like old Cairo and Azhar area in Egypt, or the big Medina in Tunisia & Morocco, or the hilly old town in Greece where we had our beloved Crepe....but Istanbul combines the best features of all these places: It is clean, picturesque, well maintained, lively with endless crowds of locals & visitors, safe, and well served with orderly public trams and buses.
I attended a dervish dance/prayer performed at an old restored mosque. Awesome. I walked/rode by all the historical sites in the old city (SultanAhmet) but did not stop to visit any yet. Istanbul can easily take a whole month to see. I am frustrated by how little time i have here. I'll just have to come again...
A Day on the Town!
Today was our first free day since we got to India. We all went in to the city of Bangalore together and then spread out from there. It was great to finally feel some autonomy over my own actions.
We started out at a relatively expensive but very clean and organized Indian clothing store on Commercial Street called Fabindia. I bought a couple of things from there. I realized that things were expensive there, but they were also pretty high quality and had the sleeves already attached. Sreet places sell the shirts with the sleeves pinned inside, and you have to go to the tailor to get them sewn on, so at least I saved a step.
A group of us went to lunch at a place called Shilpa's. The food looked great, but it's still Ramadan, so I'm still fasting. After lunch, Katie and I headed over to a market/plaza area. A lot of different vendors have set up little stalls inside to sell clothing, tapestries, handicrafts, jewelry, wall-hangings, incense, dried fruit and more. I got a nice scarf to go with the outfit I had purchased earlier in the day. Really it's something I could have gotten at Old Navy, but it's authentically Indian. The man originally told me the scarf would cost 150 rupees (3 dollars). I bargained with him but was only able to get the price down to 120 and even this price he seemed very unhappy to grant me. This is something I'm not at all used to in bargaining. Most of my bargaining experience comes from Cairo I suppose, and in Cairo, paying 4/5 of the originally quoted price would be getting ripped off big time. I don't think I got ripped off necessarily. A man on the other side of the plaza/market area had tried to sell me a similar scarf for 300 rupees. Perhaps the man who I bought the scarf from was nice and just quoted me a more reasonable price to begin with. I also bought some dried mango and some dried fruit-I've-never-seen-before. The guy selling the dried fruit and other little snacks insisted that I try everything that he was selling. I kept telling him I didn't want to try things like "spicy mango", "rose dates" or "tamarind coated strawberry and mango sauce dipped in apple juice" because I was sure I wouldn't end up buying them, but he absolutely insisted. In the end, I only tried a few things of the many that he insisted I try, but he didn't seem angry at all that I didn't buy more. I was a little worried that he would say something about how I owed him a larger purchase after trying the 12 different items he had insisted I try, but that wasn't at all the case.
After this market area, Katie and I headed to Mahatma Gandhi (MG) road. I stopped by an ATM to get more cash. The ATM was in a little air-conditioned room and to get inside you had to swipe an ATM card. It was interesting. Are ATMs inside banks in the US like that? We went to a grocery store to look around and pick up some essentials like peanut butter. I picked up some biscuit things with creme filling. 16 cookie/biscuits for 10 rupees (20 cents). Cheaper than oreos...I also got some lime soda because every time we've gone out so far people have gotten some, but I haven't gotten the chance to taste it yet since I'm fasting during the day when we're out. The bottle was 15 rupees/30 cents. I like.
After shopping, Katie and I headed over to the cricket stadium. Neither of us had ever seen cricket before and we had absolutely no idea how it works/what the rules are. The only two things that came to mind when I heard the word cricket were men in turbans and Hayley practicing her "cricket throw" this summer at camp. Do sikhs play a lot of cricket? Because I definitely associated Sikhs and cricket very strongly. Despite our clear lack of knowledge of the game, we paid our 49 rupees (1 dollar) to go watch the Bangalore Brigadiers battle it out against the Malnad Gladiators. We watched people run back and forth between two lines, listened to people cheer at seemingly random intervals and gave each other confused glances for a while before deciding to ask the man sitting next to us how cricket works. He told us that this game was part of the inter-Karnataka league, so both teams were from within the state and the game wasn't really important and then turned away from us again. Katie asked something about scoring and told the man we really knew nothing about cricket. He told us to watch and learn because explaining the game would take too long and would make him "lose the match". Oops. It was worth a try...
2 hours later we knew that the batters can earn 1, 4 or 6 points on each bat, we knew that cricket somehow involves something called 'overs', we knew that the live band plays very excitedly when good things happen to the batting team and we knew that cricket games take a loong time to complete. Yeah...definitely going to wikipedia cricket when I'm done with this post. During the game, vendors were going around selling all sorts of food items: lays potato chips, ice cream bars, samosas, popcorn, real corn. There was a short intermission when the teams were switching from batting to bowling (that's what they call the pitching action!) and vice versa. During that break, many people went out and got big plates of rice and stuff. It was interesting. I guess samosas are the hotdogs of Indian cricket games. The family next to us bought a few bags of chips. When they finished with them, they tossed them casually behind them. Classic. The young boy sitting on the other side of us had had dyed-orange hair. He was probably five or six, and I'm thinking his mother probably was going for a light brown color. Definitely orange though. There was a group of about 12 or so elementary-aged boys sitting in front of us. They seemed pretty proud to be there on their own. Incidentally, there were no turban-wearing men on the field today.
We came back to Visthar after the game. There was dinner waiting for us, and it was actually Indian food. Here there is normally Indian food for lunch and American or Chinese food for dinner. That's nice of them, but, since I haven't eaten many lunches here, that means not much Indian food for me. It was great to have some today. I also got to drink my lime soda although it turns out it's lime juice: no carbonation. Still delicious though!
Overall, a very good day. It made me reminisce about the many days last summer that I spent walking around downtown Cairo. I wish I could do the same every day here, but that's not what I'm in India for...
Oo...somehow that reminded me! My mom is in Turkey now, and it sounds amazing! She says that it's a lot like Egypt too. In her e-mail to me she said that the air somehow smells like Egypt which is exactly what I feel about India. I hope to go Turkey someday too.
On Monday we leave for a week-long field visit to Koppal. There we will be helping to construct a school. I'm nervous but excited. It will be good to be doing something different and seeing a new part of India.
Sleepy time for me! I'm so excited to get to sleep in tomorrow.
We started out at a relatively expensive but very clean and organized Indian clothing store on Commercial Street called Fabindia. I bought a couple of things from there. I realized that things were expensive there, but they were also pretty high quality and had the sleeves already attached. Sreet places sell the shirts with the sleeves pinned inside, and you have to go to the tailor to get them sewn on, so at least I saved a step.
A group of us went to lunch at a place called Shilpa's. The food looked great, but it's still Ramadan, so I'm still fasting. After lunch, Katie and I headed over to a market/plaza area. A lot of different vendors have set up little stalls inside to sell clothing, tapestries, handicrafts, jewelry, wall-hangings, incense, dried fruit and more. I got a nice scarf to go with the outfit I had purchased earlier in the day. Really it's something I could have gotten at Old Navy, but it's authentically Indian. The man originally told me the scarf would cost 150 rupees (3 dollars). I bargained with him but was only able to get the price down to 120 and even this price he seemed very unhappy to grant me. This is something I'm not at all used to in bargaining. Most of my bargaining experience comes from Cairo I suppose, and in Cairo, paying 4/5 of the originally quoted price would be getting ripped off big time. I don't think I got ripped off necessarily. A man on the other side of the plaza/market area had tried to sell me a similar scarf for 300 rupees. Perhaps the man who I bought the scarf from was nice and just quoted me a more reasonable price to begin with. I also bought some dried mango and some dried fruit-I've-never-seen-before. The guy selling the dried fruit and other little snacks insisted that I try everything that he was selling. I kept telling him I didn't want to try things like "spicy mango", "rose dates" or "tamarind coated strawberry and mango sauce dipped in apple juice" because I was sure I wouldn't end up buying them, but he absolutely insisted. In the end, I only tried a few things of the many that he insisted I try, but he didn't seem angry at all that I didn't buy more. I was a little worried that he would say something about how I owed him a larger purchase after trying the 12 different items he had insisted I try, but that wasn't at all the case.
After this market area, Katie and I headed to Mahatma Gandhi (MG) road. I stopped by an ATM to get more cash. The ATM was in a little air-conditioned room and to get inside you had to swipe an ATM card. It was interesting. Are ATMs inside banks in the US like that? We went to a grocery store to look around and pick up some essentials like peanut butter. I picked up some biscuit things with creme filling. 16 cookie/biscuits for 10 rupees (20 cents). Cheaper than oreos...I also got some lime soda because every time we've gone out so far people have gotten some, but I haven't gotten the chance to taste it yet since I'm fasting during the day when we're out. The bottle was 15 rupees/30 cents. I like.
After shopping, Katie and I headed over to the cricket stadium. Neither of us had ever seen cricket before and we had absolutely no idea how it works/what the rules are. The only two things that came to mind when I heard the word cricket were men in turbans and Hayley practicing her "cricket throw" this summer at camp. Do sikhs play a lot of cricket? Because I definitely associated Sikhs and cricket very strongly. Despite our clear lack of knowledge of the game, we paid our 49 rupees (1 dollar) to go watch the Bangalore Brigadiers battle it out against the Malnad Gladiators. We watched people run back and forth between two lines, listened to people cheer at seemingly random intervals and gave each other confused glances for a while before deciding to ask the man sitting next to us how cricket works. He told us that this game was part of the inter-Karnataka league, so both teams were from within the state and the game wasn't really important and then turned away from us again. Katie asked something about scoring and told the man we really knew nothing about cricket. He told us to watch and learn because explaining the game would take too long and would make him "lose the match". Oops. It was worth a try...
2 hours later we knew that the batters can earn 1, 4 or 6 points on each bat, we knew that cricket somehow involves something called 'overs', we knew that the live band plays very excitedly when good things happen to the batting team and we knew that cricket games take a loong time to complete. Yeah...definitely going to wikipedia cricket when I'm done with this post. During the game, vendors were going around selling all sorts of food items: lays potato chips, ice cream bars, samosas, popcorn, real corn. There was a short intermission when the teams were switching from batting to bowling (that's what they call the pitching action!) and vice versa. During that break, many people went out and got big plates of rice and stuff. It was interesting. I guess samosas are the hotdogs of Indian cricket games. The family next to us bought a few bags of chips. When they finished with them, they tossed them casually behind them. Classic. The young boy sitting on the other side of us had had dyed-orange hair. He was probably five or six, and I'm thinking his mother probably was going for a light brown color. Definitely orange though. There was a group of about 12 or so elementary-aged boys sitting in front of us. They seemed pretty proud to be there on their own. Incidentally, there were no turban-wearing men on the field today.
We came back to Visthar after the game. There was dinner waiting for us, and it was actually Indian food. Here there is normally Indian food for lunch and American or Chinese food for dinner. That's nice of them, but, since I haven't eaten many lunches here, that means not much Indian food for me. It was great to have some today. I also got to drink my lime soda although it turns out it's lime juice: no carbonation. Still delicious though!
Overall, a very good day. It made me reminisce about the many days last summer that I spent walking around downtown Cairo. I wish I could do the same every day here, but that's not what I'm in India for...
Oo...somehow that reminded me! My mom is in Turkey now, and it sounds amazing! She says that it's a lot like Egypt too. In her e-mail to me she said that the air somehow smells like Egypt which is exactly what I feel about India. I hope to go Turkey someday too.
On Monday we leave for a week-long field visit to Koppal. There we will be helping to construct a school. I'm nervous but excited. It will be good to be doing something different and seeing a new part of India.
Sleepy time for me! I'm so excited to get to sleep in tomorrow.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
I'm in India. India is not Egypt.
A rather obvious statement but one I have to regularly remind myself of. So much of what I see every day here reminds me so much of Egypt, but I have to remind myself that it is not Egypt. I keep bringing up stories about Egypt or relating things I see here to things I've seen in Egypt and then I just have to take a step back and remind myself that the other students on this trip haven't been to Egypt and have no interest in Egypt.
There are many ways in which India is similar to Egypt and many more in which it is not. Let me start with traffic. Like Egypt, India has a lot of it. I've only been to Bangalore so far, but the streets are packed there. They are not quite as packed as the streets of Cairo, but it is still pretty hectic. Unlike Egypt, a large percentage of the vehicles on the road are 3-wheeled auto rickshaws. These are the same things as Egyptian "tuk-tuks", but in Egypt, tuk-tuks aren't allowed on main streets, so they are not seen very often. Here in India, auto rickshaws are the primary form of taxi transport. If you want to ride in a car taxi, you have to call it and have it come to you.
We recently came back from weekend homestay experiences. I was staying with a Muslim family, and I was struck by how similar their house and life were to the houses and lives of Muslim families I've seen in Egypt. The walls of the house were adorned with Quranic verses. The kitchen looked similar. The living room looked similar. The bathroom looked very similar (complete with the lack of shower curtain). Even the beds had a similar hard feel to them. The hospitality of the host family was at once tremendous and overwhelming as I have often found to be the case in Egypt. No matter how much I ate, my generous hosts insisted I was eating "too less". Familiar...
There was a 17-year old girl in my host home named Shifa. She is incredibly nice. She is in her first year of medical school, and, when I first saw her, she had just come from classes. She carried a large white purse with her books, notebooks and pens inside and her cell phone was glued to her hand. It reminded me very much of the students at the AUC last year. Speaking of cell phones, people give them such priority here! They are constantly ringing during class/presentations and people are not at all embarassed to answer them and carry out conversations. This was something I had noticed in Egypt as well. I wonder if it is because in both India and Egypt (and many other countries that aren't the US), only the sender and not the receiver of a telephone call pays for the call. This means that answering the phone when it rings rather than letting yourself miss the call and then calling back later equals saving money.
There are Hindu temples all around Bangalore (obviously since India is 80% Hindu). I had never seen a Hindu temple before, and I am awed by how decorative they are. They all are adorned with little statues of many of the Hindu gods and goddesses. They are a marvel to look at and unlike any place of worship I have seen before.
One thing that I've noticed here that is very different from Cairo is that men do not talk/hiss/shout/stare at women who walk past them on the street. In Cairo, no matter what you a woman wears, she gets a lot of attention from males if she is walking alone. Although we had been told that this was the case in India during our orientation, I haven't found that to be true at all. Perhaps it is true in other cities but not Bangalore. Even as a group of Americans who clearly stands out, we haven't been bothered by men on the streets at all. That reminds me! A large part of why we, particularly the women, stand out is that we don't wear salwar kameez or saris. I'd say about 95% of the women wear one of those two clothing items. Some of us got the chance to buy similar things this weekend with our host families, and I think all of us are hoping to buy at least one Indian outfit soon. Men tend to wear clothing similar to what men wear in the US. They also sometimes wear a kurta, but kurtas are not nearly as common as salwar kameez and saris.
I am staying on the campus of and NGO called Visthar. It is an absolutely beautiful campus full of all sorts of greenery, including many fruit trees! The campus is also home to about 70 girls who attend the Bandhavi school. Had they not been taken from their homes to attend the school, they would have eventually become temple prostitutes. They have all been here for a few years now, and it is clear that they absolutely love it here. The food at Visthar is great! It is currently Ramadan, so I haven't gotten to eat much of it, but what I have eaten is delicious. Our classes take place on campus. So far, our classes have been long and seemingly pointless. It feels sort of like an extended college orientation. We are, though, still in the section of our syllabus called Orientation. I am sure that as things get going, it will be more intense.
So far we have gone on our homestays, been welcomed to Visthar and India in an elaborate inaugural celebration, been invited to participate in the games and feast involved in Visthar's celebration of the festival Onam, toured a slum and an elite mall in Bangalore, been tasked with finding our way by bus to St. Mary's Basilica in Bangalore to celebrate the festival that revolves around the birthday of the virgin Mary, watched a play by the Indian theatre group 'Rafiki' about South African apartheid, and spent many hours in a classroom talking about how we can build community at Visthar.
It has been fun, but I am missing home greatly. I keep reminding myself that I am in India, so I should really be living in the moment and enjoying every moment of it. It is hard, but I think it will get easier as time goes on.
I currently have a mosquito bite on my eyelid and one on my lip, so it looks like I got in a fight. I also have little bug bites all over my forehead and the sides of my cheeks. I'm hoping they don't swell because then I'll really look strange.
Oo...I just thought of some other things to mention. My host family to me to get Mahindi (Henna) on my hands. It was only 25 rupees per hand (50 cents). They also bought me some bangles and a beautiful Indian scarf. It was pretty amazing.
Also, we started yoga classes yesterday. So far, we really haven't done much yoga. The instructor talks about yoga theory/history for most of the class and then yesterday we did stretching exercises and today we did breathing exercises. He said we will start doing poses tomorrow.
Okay, this may be the most scattered blog post (or any piece of writing for that matter) that I have ever written. Sorry about that, but there is a lot of things that I would like to be able to write, and I kinda just wrote things down as they came to mind. Hopefully my next blog post will be at least marginally more coherent.
There are many ways in which India is similar to Egypt and many more in which it is not. Let me start with traffic. Like Egypt, India has a lot of it. I've only been to Bangalore so far, but the streets are packed there. They are not quite as packed as the streets of Cairo, but it is still pretty hectic. Unlike Egypt, a large percentage of the vehicles on the road are 3-wheeled auto rickshaws. These are the same things as Egyptian "tuk-tuks", but in Egypt, tuk-tuks aren't allowed on main streets, so they are not seen very often. Here in India, auto rickshaws are the primary form of taxi transport. If you want to ride in a car taxi, you have to call it and have it come to you.
We recently came back from weekend homestay experiences. I was staying with a Muslim family, and I was struck by how similar their house and life were to the houses and lives of Muslim families I've seen in Egypt. The walls of the house were adorned with Quranic verses. The kitchen looked similar. The living room looked similar. The bathroom looked very similar (complete with the lack of shower curtain). Even the beds had a similar hard feel to them. The hospitality of the host family was at once tremendous and overwhelming as I have often found to be the case in Egypt. No matter how much I ate, my generous hosts insisted I was eating "too less". Familiar...
There was a 17-year old girl in my host home named Shifa. She is incredibly nice. She is in her first year of medical school, and, when I first saw her, she had just come from classes. She carried a large white purse with her books, notebooks and pens inside and her cell phone was glued to her hand. It reminded me very much of the students at the AUC last year. Speaking of cell phones, people give them such priority here! They are constantly ringing during class/presentations and people are not at all embarassed to answer them and carry out conversations. This was something I had noticed in Egypt as well. I wonder if it is because in both India and Egypt (and many other countries that aren't the US), only the sender and not the receiver of a telephone call pays for the call. This means that answering the phone when it rings rather than letting yourself miss the call and then calling back later equals saving money.
There are Hindu temples all around Bangalore (obviously since India is 80% Hindu). I had never seen a Hindu temple before, and I am awed by how decorative they are. They all are adorned with little statues of many of the Hindu gods and goddesses. They are a marvel to look at and unlike any place of worship I have seen before.
One thing that I've noticed here that is very different from Cairo is that men do not talk/hiss/shout/stare at women who walk past them on the street. In Cairo, no matter what you a woman wears, she gets a lot of attention from males if she is walking alone. Although we had been told that this was the case in India during our orientation, I haven't found that to be true at all. Perhaps it is true in other cities but not Bangalore. Even as a group of Americans who clearly stands out, we haven't been bothered by men on the streets at all. That reminds me! A large part of why we, particularly the women, stand out is that we don't wear salwar kameez or saris. I'd say about 95% of the women wear one of those two clothing items. Some of us got the chance to buy similar things this weekend with our host families, and I think all of us are hoping to buy at least one Indian outfit soon. Men tend to wear clothing similar to what men wear in the US. They also sometimes wear a kurta, but kurtas are not nearly as common as salwar kameez and saris.
I am staying on the campus of and NGO called Visthar. It is an absolutely beautiful campus full of all sorts of greenery, including many fruit trees! The campus is also home to about 70 girls who attend the Bandhavi school. Had they not been taken from their homes to attend the school, they would have eventually become temple prostitutes. They have all been here for a few years now, and it is clear that they absolutely love it here. The food at Visthar is great! It is currently Ramadan, so I haven't gotten to eat much of it, but what I have eaten is delicious. Our classes take place on campus. So far, our classes have been long and seemingly pointless. It feels sort of like an extended college orientation. We are, though, still in the section of our syllabus called Orientation. I am sure that as things get going, it will be more intense.
So far we have gone on our homestays, been welcomed to Visthar and India in an elaborate inaugural celebration, been invited to participate in the games and feast involved in Visthar's celebration of the festival Onam, toured a slum and an elite mall in Bangalore, been tasked with finding our way by bus to St. Mary's Basilica in Bangalore to celebrate the festival that revolves around the birthday of the virgin Mary, watched a play by the Indian theatre group 'Rafiki' about South African apartheid, and spent many hours in a classroom talking about how we can build community at Visthar.
It has been fun, but I am missing home greatly. I keep reminding myself that I am in India, so I should really be living in the moment and enjoying every moment of it. It is hard, but I think it will get easier as time goes on.
I currently have a mosquito bite on my eyelid and one on my lip, so it looks like I got in a fight. I also have little bug bites all over my forehead and the sides of my cheeks. I'm hoping they don't swell because then I'll really look strange.
Oo...I just thought of some other things to mention. My host family to me to get Mahindi (Henna) on my hands. It was only 25 rupees per hand (50 cents). They also bought me some bangles and a beautiful Indian scarf. It was pretty amazing.
Also, we started yoga classes yesterday. So far, we really haven't done much yoga. The instructor talks about yoga theory/history for most of the class and then yesterday we did stretching exercises and today we did breathing exercises. He said we will start doing poses tomorrow.
Okay, this may be the most scattered blog post (or any piece of writing for that matter) that I have ever written. Sorry about that, but there is a lot of things that I would like to be able to write, and I kinda just wrote things down as they came to mind. Hopefully my next blog post will be at least marginally more coherent.
Never Ever Delete a Blog
Last summer, I kept a very detailed blog about my travels. Shortly after I returned home, I decided the best thing to do now that I had nothing meaningful to write in my blog would be to delete it. I immediately regretted this decision, so I recovered all of my blog posts using Google. (Even after you delete something from the web, it's still out there...) I saved those posts, and, now that I am again ready to use my blog, I decided to re-post them because I didn't write those posts to have nobody read them. They are all below listed by their original titles and post dates.
well I figured out what people do in summer (originally published August 28, 2008)
5 weeks and one day after I wrote a post called 'what do people do in summer?', I'm starting classes unable to remember a single second of boredom this summer. I wrote at some point that boredom hadn't sunk in yet but that was just me being pessimistic; boredom never did sink in. My planner is covered in things I've done and things yet to do. I sleep 6 hours a night and yet every waking minute is occupied. I love it that way.
My job as an RA (Resident Assistant) started a couple of weeks ago and has been absolutely amazing so far. I love the ladies on my floor. Classes start today. I'm really excited about my classes this semester. I'm finally returning to Spanish after a two and a half year gap. I'm taking a linguistic-ish course, something I've always been interested in. I also have International Politics (if you know me, you know that I'm ecstatic about that). I'm even looking forward to my required Religion 100 course. The fall tennis season starts on Monday. I'm a little nervous because I'm still not playing my best but that's okay. I got a job as a tennis instructor!! I can't even put into words how excited I am about that. I always wanted that job but the supervisor Jerry said that he only hires people who work in the summer first which meant that, since I'm never here in the summer, I'd never be able to be a tennis instructor. He called me a couple of days ago asking me to work this session. When I listened to the message, I got happier than I've ever been in my life I think. :)
As a side note, motorized scooters/mopeds have made a big appearance in Fargo. I don't remember ever seeing people riding scooters around here before but I see them quite frequently now which is, of course, great.
Posted by ayah at 2:17 AM
returning to my one true love (originally published July 28, 2008)
After days of bonding time with the ball machine, I played with a real person today. It was good to finally play someone who has both a strategic mind and a true interest in playing tennis not in getting paid.
Posted by ayah at 12:42 AM
Posted by ayah at 12:42 AM
whoa (originally published July 24, 2008)
I just saw a really green orange in my refrigerator. I was wondering if it was a different species of orange or if it was just really really unripe. Then I realized it was a lime.
Posted by ayah at 6:57 PM
Posted by ayah at 6:57 PM
what do people do in the summer? (originally published July 23, 2008)
My life's boring now. I really don't have anything substantial or interesting to write about anymore. It's been years since I've been at home in the summer without regular scheduled things to do for more than a week. People keep asking me what I'm going to do during the rest of the summer but I haven't the slightest clue.
The boredom still hasn't sunk in because I was busy for the last couple days. I spent basically the entirety of Monday and Tuesday shopping with the trio. It was fun but I've definitely had my fill of that for another six months. I also went to a couple movies and ate at a few restaurants with them. We went to Made of Honor at Safari first. It's your typical predictable chick flick. My friend Haya and I predicted the entire movie down to the little details before it even started. It was cute though. On Monday we ate at the North American Steak Buffet for dinner, per Omar's request. It's what you could expect of a restaurant with such a name: Lots of food. Lots of fat. Lots of people. I'm not sure what it is but that restaurant has always been ridiculously popular among the Egyptians in Fargo so my family used to go a lot, usually with other Egyptian families. After a point, though, we realized that - even if it does cost only 10 dollars for all of the potatoes, fried chicken, biscuits, steak, pie, etc. that you can eat - it's not worth it if the food isn't good. We can just pay the same amount to eat a reasonable portion of well prepared food at a different restaurant. Anyway, also on Monday we went to Dark Knight. I hadn't really wanted to go because I was very tired: I had woken up at 4 on Monday and we went to the 9:40 showing after a solid day of non-stop shopping. Nevertheless, after all I'd heard about the movie, I was excited. As soon as we got into the theatre though sleepiness set in. As hard as I tried to fight it I fell asleep for about the first hour of the movie. I didn't think the movie was all that great but, y'know, maybe I would have appreciated the plot more if I'd seen the first half...I have to say, though (and not just because he's dead), that Heath Ledger was very convincing as the Joker. The ending was also good..not as predictable as many superhero movie endings. On Tuesday we ate at Ruby Tuesday. That is one under-appreciated restaurant. If you aren't familiar, it's sort of like Friday's but it has an all-you-can eat salad buffet that you can get for 7.99 by itself or 2.99 as an add-on to your entree. It's genius: the perfect set-up for me. Their pricing makes me laugh though. They have some items on the menu that automatically come with the salad bar. Some such items: the 2 mini burgers and fries for 8.99 and the soup for 8.49. Basically it's like getting two little burgers and fries for a dollar or a bowl of soup for 5o cents. I'd been planning on getting just the salad bar but, realizing this, I ordered the mini turkey burgers and salad. I ate my salad from the salad bar and took the burgers and fries home for my brother. It was perfect!
The trio left this morning and only now do I feel like I'm really home. Now I'm starting to go back to my real life. I finally had time to organize my room and run errands I need to do. Today I went and toured Park Region, the hall I'll be working in next semester. The rooms are so much more spacious than the ones in Hoyum (where I was last year). I'm pretty excited. I got some things I need for my dorm room. I went to the library. Now there is one thing I've really missed. The AUC library is okay but nothing compared to my good old friendly Fargo Public Library. :) I got a couple dozen books, some movies and some CDs to keep my self busy for the next couple of days. If anyone reads this and has some book, movie or music suggestions, please let me know. I went to yet another movie: Baby Mama. I'm not sure if I mentioned before but here in Fargo we have a discount theatre with $1.50 movies, another thing I missed while in Egypt. Baby Mama was good but not as good as I expected. I thought it would be wittier. I stopped by the club where I play tennis to reactivate my membership. Now I'll finally be able to start playing. I have the ball machine reserved for tomorrow morning! I should go inflate the tires on my bike - another thing I've missed!
Posted by ayah at 10:03 PM
The boredom still hasn't sunk in because I was busy for the last couple days. I spent basically the entirety of Monday and Tuesday shopping with the trio. It was fun but I've definitely had my fill of that for another six months. I also went to a couple movies and ate at a few restaurants with them. We went to Made of Honor at Safari first. It's your typical predictable chick flick. My friend Haya and I predicted the entire movie down to the little details before it even started. It was cute though. On Monday we ate at the North American Steak Buffet for dinner, per Omar's request. It's what you could expect of a restaurant with such a name: Lots of food. Lots of fat. Lots of people. I'm not sure what it is but that restaurant has always been ridiculously popular among the Egyptians in Fargo so my family used to go a lot, usually with other Egyptian families. After a point, though, we realized that - even if it does cost only 10 dollars for all of the potatoes, fried chicken, biscuits, steak, pie, etc. that you can eat - it's not worth it if the food isn't good. We can just pay the same amount to eat a reasonable portion of well prepared food at a different restaurant. Anyway, also on Monday we went to Dark Knight. I hadn't really wanted to go because I was very tired: I had woken up at 4 on Monday and we went to the 9:40 showing after a solid day of non-stop shopping. Nevertheless, after all I'd heard about the movie, I was excited. As soon as we got into the theatre though sleepiness set in. As hard as I tried to fight it I fell asleep for about the first hour of the movie. I didn't think the movie was all that great but, y'know, maybe I would have appreciated the plot more if I'd seen the first half...I have to say, though (and not just because he's dead), that Heath Ledger was very convincing as the Joker. The ending was also good..not as predictable as many superhero movie endings. On Tuesday we ate at Ruby Tuesday. That is one under-appreciated restaurant. If you aren't familiar, it's sort of like Friday's but it has an all-you-can eat salad buffet that you can get for 7.99 by itself or 2.99 as an add-on to your entree. It's genius: the perfect set-up for me. Their pricing makes me laugh though. They have some items on the menu that automatically come with the salad bar. Some such items: the 2 mini burgers and fries for 8.99 and the soup for 8.49. Basically it's like getting two little burgers and fries for a dollar or a bowl of soup for 5o cents. I'd been planning on getting just the salad bar but, realizing this, I ordered the mini turkey burgers and salad. I ate my salad from the salad bar and took the burgers and fries home for my brother. It was perfect!
The trio left this morning and only now do I feel like I'm really home. Now I'm starting to go back to my real life. I finally had time to organize my room and run errands I need to do. Today I went and toured Park Region, the hall I'll be working in next semester. The rooms are so much more spacious than the ones in Hoyum (where I was last year). I'm pretty excited. I got some things I need for my dorm room. I went to the library. Now there is one thing I've really missed. The AUC library is okay but nothing compared to my good old friendly Fargo Public Library. :) I got a couple dozen books, some movies and some CDs to keep my self busy for the next couple of days. If anyone reads this and has some book, movie or music suggestions, please let me know. I went to yet another movie: Baby Mama. I'm not sure if I mentioned before but here in Fargo we have a discount theatre with $1.50 movies, another thing I missed while in Egypt. Baby Mama was good but not as good as I expected. I thought it would be wittier. I stopped by the club where I play tennis to reactivate my membership. Now I'll finally be able to start playing. I have the ball machine reserved for tomorrow morning! I should go inflate the tires on my bike - another thing I've missed!
Posted by ayah at 10:03 PM
'Home' (originally published July 20, 2008)
It's cold. It's empty. It's quiet. It's clean. It's Fargo. and Fargo is home. Since I got here I keep repeating in my head, "I live here. This is home." in the hope that it will start to sink in. I still feel like I'm just visiting this seriously population-lacking city and that in a few days I'll be going back. I can't bring myself to change my time on the computer to Fargo time. I'll have to do that soon. It's only been about 12 hours though. The trio (Mohamad, Wafa and Omar) came a few hours ago; their train was late. Their sleeping schedules and mine are going to be complete opposites now. It's 8 am and I just woke up after three hours of sleep; they went to sleep at 5 too but they'll probably wake up around 1 or 2 or later. That means I'll be tired at around 6 or 7 pm and they'll be tired around 3 or 4 am. Beautiful.
The flights were good. We were cutting it last minute the whole time. My uncle who drove us to the airport was really tired and kept falling back asleep so, since I had to take all 8 of our 50 pound suitcases down three flights of stairs by myself, we left about 40 minutes later than planned. Check-in was smooth and since my grandma had ordered a wheelchair to take her to the gate in the Cairo airport, we had no problem with time. The guy who was pushing the wheelchair has the right to skip all the lines (passport control, security, boarding). Once we got to the gate, we, along with the rest of the 'passengers with disabilities' and their families boarded first. I was really impressed actually at how it works. They have a truck with a platform thing that goes up like an elevator so that the passengers don't have to get out of their wheelchairs. That truck then takes the passengers and their families directly to the plane and elevates to the level of the door so that, unlike the other passengers in Cairo, they don't have to climb a flight of stairs to get into the plane. Because they are the first to board, all the flight attendants are free to help them find their seats and put away their luggage. I was impressed.
Upon arrival in Amsterdam, an electric cart picked my grandmother and the other passengers requiring wheelchairs up from the gate and brought them to the waiting area where they were to be picked up an hour before boarding time for their next flight. The woman driving the cart checked all of the passengers in and gave them back their boarding passes. We had a six-hour layover so we spent a lot of time wandering and sleeping. Our flight was scheduled at 1:15. At about 12:15 and again at 12:20 a man came around asking for passenger Morgan to San Francisco. He looked at my grandmother expecting her to be passenger Morgan but she was passenger Ouda to Minneapolis. By about 12:25 we were starting to wonder what was going on; we would be late to our plane if we waited much longer. My grandma took out her boarding pass to check her time and realized that she did indeed have passenger Morgan's boarding pass to San Francisco, leaving at 1:25. She went immediately to the desk and there they realized that passenger Morgan and my grandmother's boarding passes had been switched when the driver of the electric cart took them to check-in for them. Passenger Morgan was not around so it took them about 15 minutes to straighten some things out and print my grandma's new boarding pass. Again, since we were with a wheelchair pushing person, we were fine despite being tight for time since we skipped all lines. When they were scanning the ticket for us to board, my grandma's ticket beeped, telling the guy 'already checked-in'. I quickly explained to the guy what had happened over at the waiting area for people with wheelchairs. They all immediately looked alarmed but let us board right away. As we were walking in the tube, one of the ticket agents from outside was helping an elderly passenger walk, explaining to her that she had been taken to the wrong plane. The elderly passenger, clearly passenger Morgan, had been one of the women on the electric cart with my grandma early. Beyond a careless mistake, does this seem alarming to you?? Passenger Morgan boarded a plane from Amsterdam to Minneapolis in the name of Rawia Ouda. Through all the security checks and questioning in the airport before boarding a plane to the US how could they have possibly not noticed the name on her boarding pass didn't match the name on her passport??? Also, what would have happened if we'd all fallen asleep (which actually almost happened). Passenger Morgan, intending to go to San Francisco, would have ridden the plane to Minneapolis. Wow.
On the plane I watched a Bollywood film called 'You, Me and Us'. It took me until the last 2o minutes of the movie to realize that it was the Bollywood version of The Notebook. It is almost an identical story with a nominally happier ending. Good mood lifter.
We had slightly less than two hours scheduled between landing time from Amsterdam and departure time to Fargo in Minneapolis. I'm not sure who scheduled it like that but never again. Two hours really isn't enough time to get through passport control, get our 8 bags from the baggage wheel, put them on the conveyor for customs, get them from the conveyor for customs, put them back on the conveyor to go to our plane, check-in to our flight, and still be at the gate 30 minutes before departure time. We wouldn't have made it without the help of my grandma's wheelchair pusher who allowed us to skip all of the quite long lines, a very helpful baggage worker who acted as porter for us, taking care of our bags through all the conveyor belts and several of Minneapolis' electric cart drivers. Despite all of their help we were still the last ones to board the plane but the important thing was that we made it.
In Fargo, quite miraculously, all of but one of our bags arrived. That last one arrived to us in our house about 3 hours later. On the drive home I was stunned by the lack of people. I feel like I'm in a dead-town despite the fact that I'm in the largest 'city' in North Dakota. We got home at 7 pm; the trio was scheduled to arrive at the Fargo train station at 3 am. My dad made us a great dinner and then we unpacked and organized as best we could. I did my best to set out beds for everyone. We're currently using all of the sheets in our house except for the extra-long ones for my dorm. I guess that means we're at our full capacity. :)
I'm still in utter disbelief at how horribly the guy cut my hair. I liked my hair long; I just wanted to trim it a bit and give it shape so it didn't get too long in the coming months. I explained that to him but, nevertheless, he chopped my hair off. Taking away the length and any shape that it did have. My mom helped me relax (chemically straighten) my hair yesterday. It's less frizzy but I'm still not exactly pleased with it.
The trio's train arrived late and they came to our house around 4:30 am. They were all beat from a month of ridiculously hard work and lack of sleep. We chatted for a little bit and went in to sleep around 5:30. It took me a really long hard to sleep. I could hear every tick and tock of my clock, every peep of a bird from outside the room. It was eery. The quiet hum of my computer on my desk seemed like the roar of a supersonic jet to me and I had to get up and turn the computer off before I managed to fall asleep. I guess it will be good once I'm moved into the dorms. We all know it's never silent in a college dorm. :D
Kimo has forgotten so many things about home. I stopped at a water fountain to take a drink at the Amsterdam airport. "What are you doing with that faucet, Ayah," he asked. "I'm drinking water," I said. "What," he asked, "you're licking water?? Hehe..that's funny. Can I try the faucet water?" When my mom came he excitedly told her about he faucet and how she could try the faucet water if she wanted. When we went out to the parking lot in Fargo, Kimo couldn't pick out our car and even when my dad pointed at our van he asked incredulously, "that big van is ours??' He was confused when my dad started buckling his seatbelt for him, "Hehe..what's that for, daddy?" He was endlessly amused by the fact that the freezer has a button for ice. He was falling asleep in the car but as soon as we got home he spent hours playing with his toys. He remembered none of them so it was liking having a house full of new toys.
I've forgotten my fair share of things too. I tried to check my cell phone messages but failed, having forgotten my voicemail password. It took me a while to see my new text messages too because I've completely forgotten how the menus on Samsung phones work. I've forgotten where a lot of the light switches are and, of course, I can't find anything. Anytime I want something I have to tear apart my room to figure out where I put it.
Some differences between Fargo, ND and Cairo, Egypt:
-the refrigerator in Fargo makes things cold
-it is possible to spot more than one person an hour in Cairo
-it's logical to wear a sweatshirt in Fargo in July
-free water in Fargo!
-although Fargo has central AC in most places it's 100 times less needed than in Cairo
-driving in Fargo involves rules-
in Fargo I can leave my house whenever I want. Want to go grocery shopping at 2 in the morning? Go for it!
More to come.Well, I'm out to buy some things for breakfast; we'll see if I remember how to drive stick.
Posted by ayah at 8:19 AM 0 comments
The flights were good. We were cutting it last minute the whole time. My uncle who drove us to the airport was really tired and kept falling back asleep so, since I had to take all 8 of our 50 pound suitcases down three flights of stairs by myself, we left about 40 minutes later than planned. Check-in was smooth and since my grandma had ordered a wheelchair to take her to the gate in the Cairo airport, we had no problem with time. The guy who was pushing the wheelchair has the right to skip all the lines (passport control, security, boarding). Once we got to the gate, we, along with the rest of the 'passengers with disabilities' and their families boarded first. I was really impressed actually at how it works. They have a truck with a platform thing that goes up like an elevator so that the passengers don't have to get out of their wheelchairs. That truck then takes the passengers and their families directly to the plane and elevates to the level of the door so that, unlike the other passengers in Cairo, they don't have to climb a flight of stairs to get into the plane. Because they are the first to board, all the flight attendants are free to help them find their seats and put away their luggage. I was impressed.
Upon arrival in Amsterdam, an electric cart picked my grandmother and the other passengers requiring wheelchairs up from the gate and brought them to the waiting area where they were to be picked up an hour before boarding time for their next flight. The woman driving the cart checked all of the passengers in and gave them back their boarding passes. We had a six-hour layover so we spent a lot of time wandering and sleeping. Our flight was scheduled at 1:15. At about 12:15 and again at 12:20 a man came around asking for passenger Morgan to San Francisco. He looked at my grandmother expecting her to be passenger Morgan but she was passenger Ouda to Minneapolis. By about 12:25 we were starting to wonder what was going on; we would be late to our plane if we waited much longer. My grandma took out her boarding pass to check her time and realized that she did indeed have passenger Morgan's boarding pass to San Francisco, leaving at 1:25. She went immediately to the desk and there they realized that passenger Morgan and my grandmother's boarding passes had been switched when the driver of the electric cart took them to check-in for them. Passenger Morgan was not around so it took them about 15 minutes to straighten some things out and print my grandma's new boarding pass. Again, since we were with a wheelchair pushing person, we were fine despite being tight for time since we skipped all lines. When they were scanning the ticket for us to board, my grandma's ticket beeped, telling the guy 'already checked-in'. I quickly explained to the guy what had happened over at the waiting area for people with wheelchairs. They all immediately looked alarmed but let us board right away. As we were walking in the tube, one of the ticket agents from outside was helping an elderly passenger walk, explaining to her that she had been taken to the wrong plane. The elderly passenger, clearly passenger Morgan, had been one of the women on the electric cart with my grandma early. Beyond a careless mistake, does this seem alarming to you?? Passenger Morgan boarded a plane from Amsterdam to Minneapolis in the name of Rawia Ouda. Through all the security checks and questioning in the airport before boarding a plane to the US how could they have possibly not noticed the name on her boarding pass didn't match the name on her passport??? Also, what would have happened if we'd all fallen asleep (which actually almost happened). Passenger Morgan, intending to go to San Francisco, would have ridden the plane to Minneapolis. Wow.
On the plane I watched a Bollywood film called 'You, Me and Us'. It took me until the last 2o minutes of the movie to realize that it was the Bollywood version of The Notebook. It is almost an identical story with a nominally happier ending. Good mood lifter.
We had slightly less than two hours scheduled between landing time from Amsterdam and departure time to Fargo in Minneapolis. I'm not sure who scheduled it like that but never again. Two hours really isn't enough time to get through passport control, get our 8 bags from the baggage wheel, put them on the conveyor for customs, get them from the conveyor for customs, put them back on the conveyor to go to our plane, check-in to our flight, and still be at the gate 30 minutes before departure time. We wouldn't have made it without the help of my grandma's wheelchair pusher who allowed us to skip all of the quite long lines, a very helpful baggage worker who acted as porter for us, taking care of our bags through all the conveyor belts and several of Minneapolis' electric cart drivers. Despite all of their help we were still the last ones to board the plane but the important thing was that we made it.
In Fargo, quite miraculously, all of but one of our bags arrived. That last one arrived to us in our house about 3 hours later. On the drive home I was stunned by the lack of people. I feel like I'm in a dead-town despite the fact that I'm in the largest 'city' in North Dakota. We got home at 7 pm; the trio was scheduled to arrive at the Fargo train station at 3 am. My dad made us a great dinner and then we unpacked and organized as best we could. I did my best to set out beds for everyone. We're currently using all of the sheets in our house except for the extra-long ones for my dorm. I guess that means we're at our full capacity. :)
I'm still in utter disbelief at how horribly the guy cut my hair. I liked my hair long; I just wanted to trim it a bit and give it shape so it didn't get too long in the coming months. I explained that to him but, nevertheless, he chopped my hair off. Taking away the length and any shape that it did have. My mom helped me relax (chemically straighten) my hair yesterday. It's less frizzy but I'm still not exactly pleased with it.
The trio's train arrived late and they came to our house around 4:30 am. They were all beat from a month of ridiculously hard work and lack of sleep. We chatted for a little bit and went in to sleep around 5:30. It took me a really long hard to sleep. I could hear every tick and tock of my clock, every peep of a bird from outside the room. It was eery. The quiet hum of my computer on my desk seemed like the roar of a supersonic jet to me and I had to get up and turn the computer off before I managed to fall asleep. I guess it will be good once I'm moved into the dorms. We all know it's never silent in a college dorm. :D
Kimo has forgotten so many things about home. I stopped at a water fountain to take a drink at the Amsterdam airport. "What are you doing with that faucet, Ayah," he asked. "I'm drinking water," I said. "What," he asked, "you're licking water?? Hehe..that's funny. Can I try the faucet water?" When my mom came he excitedly told her about he faucet and how she could try the faucet water if she wanted. When we went out to the parking lot in Fargo, Kimo couldn't pick out our car and even when my dad pointed at our van he asked incredulously, "that big van is ours??' He was confused when my dad started buckling his seatbelt for him, "Hehe..what's that for, daddy?" He was endlessly amused by the fact that the freezer has a button for ice. He was falling asleep in the car but as soon as we got home he spent hours playing with his toys. He remembered none of them so it was liking having a house full of new toys.
I've forgotten my fair share of things too. I tried to check my cell phone messages but failed, having forgotten my voicemail password. It took me a while to see my new text messages too because I've completely forgotten how the menus on Samsung phones work. I've forgotten where a lot of the light switches are and, of course, I can't find anything. Anytime I want something I have to tear apart my room to figure out where I put it.
Some differences between Fargo, ND and Cairo, Egypt:
-the refrigerator in Fargo makes things cold
-it is possible to spot more than one person an hour in Cairo
-it's logical to wear a sweatshirt in Fargo in July
-free water in Fargo!
-although Fargo has central AC in most places it's 100 times less needed than in Cairo
-driving in Fargo involves rules-
in Fargo I can leave my house whenever I want. Want to go grocery shopping at 2 in the morning? Go for it!
More to come.Well, I'm out to buy some things for breakfast; we'll see if I remember how to drive stick.
Posted by ayah at 8:19 AM 0 comments
yet another boring, pointless post about my day (originally published July 18, 2008)
which was, as expected sad, productive though I suppose.
I saw some people, called some people, said bye to them all. I didn't get to see the one person I most wanted to see, but hey! Everything for a reason, right? She hates goodbyes anyway.
I got my hair cut. I told the guy I didn't want it too short so he chopped off the front and left the back long. Genius. Whatever..it'll grow. There was a woman at the salon while I was there who kept inserting English into her sentences as if that made her more significant or something. To the guy doing her hair: "Momtaz. Gameel. Bgad nice work." To her daughter, "Mariam, askoty ba2a shwaya. NOW!"
Right now I was thinking of writing the line "I can't breathe." but decided against it. I clearly can breathe I just can't think. Anywho, I was signing in to Skype at the time and right as the line came into my head Skype told me to "Take a deep breath." Ha! Which reminds me: when we were in the library of Alexandria, I saw this guy who I was pretty sure was the not-at-all helpful tourguide we had in Port Said. When I turned for a second look it was actually a Brazilian tourist. 15 minutes later in the basement of the library I actually did see the not-at-all helpful tourguide from Port Said leading around a couple of Spanish tourists. Later in the day, I noticed a Little Caesar's sign. For some reason I was interested and so I turned to look and it turned out that it was actually just a sign for a grocery store. About one minute later, we passed a real Little Caesar's. Ah coincidences...
4 hours until my plane. 25 hours until I'm Fargo home. Wow. Cue waterworks.
Posted by ayah at 3:57 PM 0 comments
I saw some people, called some people, said bye to them all. I didn't get to see the one person I most wanted to see, but hey! Everything for a reason, right? She hates goodbyes anyway.
I got my hair cut. I told the guy I didn't want it too short so he chopped off the front and left the back long. Genius. Whatever..it'll grow. There was a woman at the salon while I was there who kept inserting English into her sentences as if that made her more significant or something. To the guy doing her hair: "Momtaz. Gameel. Bgad nice work." To her daughter, "Mariam, askoty ba2a shwaya. NOW!"
Right now I was thinking of writing the line "I can't breathe." but decided against it. I clearly can breathe I just can't think. Anywho, I was signing in to Skype at the time and right as the line came into my head Skype told me to "Take a deep breath." Ha! Which reminds me: when we were in the library of Alexandria, I saw this guy who I was pretty sure was the not-at-all helpful tourguide we had in Port Said. When I turned for a second look it was actually a Brazilian tourist. 15 minutes later in the basement of the library I actually did see the not-at-all helpful tourguide from Port Said leading around a couple of Spanish tourists. Later in the day, I noticed a Little Caesar's sign. For some reason I was interested and so I turned to look and it turned out that it was actually just a sign for a grocery store. About one minute later, we passed a real Little Caesar's. Ah coincidences...
4 hours until my plane. 25 hours until I'm Fargo home. Wow. Cue waterworks.
Posted by ayah at 3:57 PM 0 comments
and...the battery ran out. (originally posted July 17, 2008)
I've spent about 12 of the last 80 hours sleeping and haven't slept in the last 36 hours. I definitely feel drained. I didn't go to my last commitment of the day though so I'll be able to sleep right now! (for the last time this year in Egypt??)
The rest of my day was pretty fun. I actually fell asleep for about half an hour after I finished that last post and when I woke up I found that I had some missed calls from Laura. I met up with her and her classmate George and we got some dinner at Koshari el Tahrir. Delicious as always. Afterward I sat with Laura for awhile before going back home to see some aunts and friends at my house and then going back to Garden City for a couple of hours.
My mom had sent me out earlier to buy some cream so that she could make icecream from the fresh mangoes from the tree in the garden. I was a little dubious as to how that would turn out but I just tried it now and it's delicious, really one of the best mango icecreams I've ever had.
I can't believe that at this time tomorrow, I'll be getting myself mentally ready to go the airport. I will have said goodbye/be saying goodbye to my favorite people in Egypt and putting my last electronic items into suitcases. It's real. I'm actually leaving. Tomorrow.
Posted by ayah at 12:21 PM
The rest of my day was pretty fun. I actually fell asleep for about half an hour after I finished that last post and when I woke up I found that I had some missed calls from Laura. I met up with her and her classmate George and we got some dinner at Koshari el Tahrir. Delicious as always. Afterward I sat with Laura for awhile before going back home to see some aunts and friends at my house and then going back to Garden City for a couple of hours.
My mom had sent me out earlier to buy some cream so that she could make icecream from the fresh mangoes from the tree in the garden. I was a little dubious as to how that would turn out but I just tried it now and it's delicious, really one of the best mango icecreams I've ever had.
I can't believe that at this time tomorrow, I'll be getting myself mentally ready to go the airport. I will have said goodbye/be saying goodbye to my favorite people in Egypt and putting my last electronic items into suitcases. It's real. I'm actually leaving. Tomorrow.
Posted by ayah at 12:21 PM
I Feel Like the Energizer Bunny. (originally published July 17, 2008)
but...I'm not. For the past few days I've been acting as if I were the Energizer bunny, but - quite unfortunately - my battery does not 'keep going and going'. In fact, I think I'm down to about the last 2% of charge which I have to stretch over about the next 12 hours. It's all worth it though because I've been having a great time and in a few days I'll be home with all the time in the world to attend unimportant little things like sleeping and eating.
Yesterday I started my morning with tennis. I didn't manage to wake up at 6:30 as I'd planned to eat breakfast beforehand, so I opted instead to simply inhale a forkful of tuna on my way out the door. I think that actually might have worked a little bit. My muscles seemed to work much more properly than the day before. As I mentioned earlier, I was playing my favorite ballboy Mohy. I also played the head coach Gamal, who - as always (but usually because of reasons other than his skill as a tennis player) - beat me. I beat Mohy pretty badly, much to his dismay. He played well but I think he was a little nervous because it's been so long since we've played and it was close the last time. I was actually pretty surprised I won at all. He's really getting better quickly. A little note on how the tennis coaching/ballboying system works at Nady Bank el Ahly where I play. There are 8 ballboys - Mohy, Ahmed, Karim, Abaza, Islam, Hamada and two others who I never learned the names of - who I see when I go in the mornings to play. No matter when I go really, they're there, indicating to me that they don't go to school. Instead they come everyday and run around after tennis balls for 1 to 2 pound tips per hour of work. For them, though, it's really quite an investment in their future. I realized with time that, when there are no customers, the ballboys all play against each other as much as possible and they develop quickly as tennis players from all the on-court hours. When I first came, Mohy was strictly a ballboy. Occasionally he'd hit with a customer while one of the coaches (Sayed or Gamal) was changing. Yesterday when I went, the reason that I had to play Coach Gamal before Mohy was that Mohy was giving his own 'lesson'. He must be around 18 or 19 so now, having been a ballboy for who knows how long, he's becoming a coach. I expect that both Sayed and Gamal ascended to coach-hood in the same way. A 'lesson' with one of them involves nothing more than playing a match with him. If you hit the ball out/in the net they say 'NOOO!!' and if you hit a good shot they say 'yes. do that again.' Quite clearly, I don't exactly go the club for the great advice that I get from the coaches. They're decent tennis players and I usually have pretty close tennis matches with them but they just have never learned why certain shots work or certain shots don't so it's near impossible for them to notice little mistakes in form in other people and tell them how to correct them. Mohy and Ahmed (the second oldest ballboy) are always playing when I show up unannounced. I was here on Karim's first day. They had him be a ballboy for me back on that March day. He was chubby, extremely nervous, wearing sneakers a few sizes too big and very confused about the rules of the tennis game and when would be a good time to pick up the ball and give it to the server (let alone who was the server). When I saw him yesterday he had been trained just like the others. He could keep track of the score he always threw the ball perfectly, he'd lost a lot of weight and he'd gone back to playing barefoot since they were too big.
After a quick shower I was more than ready to take a nice nap. Just as I settled down to do so, my uncle Amr, aunt Samaha and cousin Jena arrived. I sat with them for a little while and then went to go see the movie Hassan w Mor2os with my mother. The film was good but it had a little more violence than what I would have been necessary. It's a movie with a great story and if had a little more direction with the scenes it could be really good. From there I went on to Dokki in an attempt to sea AlaaCandace,DC and Dina and 3am Mohamed. I was a bit later than I expected to go so the only ones there I knew were Alaa and Amed. Both of them are really nice but saying hi them but, they had work to get to, so I didn't stay long. I moved on to Garden City where I met [uo with Basma, Abir and Noha. We went to Costa for dinner and coffee and then walked around for a while. Noha got tired so Basma and I took her and Abir home and went to go get icecream for el abd. We almost arrived there before we realized that we didn't actually want icecream so we turned around. I spent the night at Basma's house which involved absolutely no sleeping. We stayed up until 7 this morning talking. At 7, I rushed back to Mohandessein to play tennis one last time and Basma finally went to sleep. The tennis was fun. I gave the boys some old rackets and tennis shoes we had in the apartment and they were really happy with them. I finally beat Coach Gamal, a very hard feat because of his strong tendency toward changing the score in his favor when he is losing. I am not so sure that my ability to beat him now stems from my personal improvement or a lessening of the cheating from his side. Basma and I were going to catch the 11 o'clock bus from AUC's current campus to AUC's new campus to check it out so I showered quickly and left my house around 10. When I called Basma's house it turned out she's still sleeping, quite logical I suppose so I just came and sat here on the AUC campus using the internet. I'm planning on meeting Laura around 1 anyway since we haven't seen each other in a while.
At the beginning of the semester, if I wanted to go to Tahrir Square, I'd go to the busstop by my house, sit on bus 102 and pay 50 piastres to be dropped off right in the square. Sinc ethe gas prices rose though they have changed the starting point of bus 102 to a little before the busstop by my house. Now the buses cost 1 pound and come to our busstop already bursting full. Today was particularly bad...wow...we were quite literally stuffed in like pickles. That along with the 26 hours without sleep I've spent so far led to one very hard to handle bus ride. I just about collapsed when I arrived at AUC. I've fallen into a momentary doze three times while writing this post.
Like I said though, it's all worth it. Mentally I'm not tired at all. I'm still as ready as ever to see all of my friends here and so I'll put off the sleep to a time when there aren't so many great things to do while awake.
Posted by ayah at 3:24 AM
Yesterday I started my morning with tennis. I didn't manage to wake up at 6:30 as I'd planned to eat breakfast beforehand, so I opted instead to simply inhale a forkful of tuna on my way out the door. I think that actually might have worked a little bit. My muscles seemed to work much more properly than the day before. As I mentioned earlier, I was playing my favorite ballboy Mohy. I also played the head coach Gamal, who - as always (but usually because of reasons other than his skill as a tennis player) - beat me. I beat Mohy pretty badly, much to his dismay. He played well but I think he was a little nervous because it's been so long since we've played and it was close the last time. I was actually pretty surprised I won at all. He's really getting better quickly. A little note on how the tennis coaching/ballboying system works at Nady Bank el Ahly where I play. There are 8 ballboys - Mohy, Ahmed, Karim, Abaza, Islam, Hamada and two others who I never learned the names of - who I see when I go in the mornings to play. No matter when I go really, they're there, indicating to me that they don't go to school. Instead they come everyday and run around after tennis balls for 1 to 2 pound tips per hour of work. For them, though, it's really quite an investment in their future. I realized with time that, when there are no customers, the ballboys all play against each other as much as possible and they develop quickly as tennis players from all the on-court hours. When I first came, Mohy was strictly a ballboy. Occasionally he'd hit with a customer while one of the coaches (Sayed or Gamal) was changing. Yesterday when I went, the reason that I had to play Coach Gamal before Mohy was that Mohy was giving his own 'lesson'. He must be around 18 or 19 so now, having been a ballboy for who knows how long, he's becoming a coach. I expect that both Sayed and Gamal ascended to coach-hood in the same way. A 'lesson' with one of them involves nothing more than playing a match with him. If you hit the ball out/in the net they say 'NOOO!!' and if you hit a good shot they say 'yes. do that again.' Quite clearly, I don't exactly go the club for the great advice that I get from the coaches. They're decent tennis players and I usually have pretty close tennis matches with them but they just have never learned why certain shots work or certain shots don't so it's near impossible for them to notice little mistakes in form in other people and tell them how to correct them. Mohy and Ahmed (the second oldest ballboy) are always playing when I show up unannounced. I was here on Karim's first day. They had him be a ballboy for me back on that March day. He was chubby, extremely nervous, wearing sneakers a few sizes too big and very confused about the rules of the tennis game and when would be a good time to pick up the ball and give it to the server (let alone who was the server). When I saw him yesterday he had been trained just like the others. He could keep track of the score he always threw the ball perfectly, he'd lost a lot of weight and he'd gone back to playing barefoot since they were too big.
After a quick shower I was more than ready to take a nice nap. Just as I settled down to do so, my uncle Amr, aunt Samaha and cousin Jena arrived. I sat with them for a little while and then went to go see the movie Hassan w Mor2os with my mother. The film was good but it had a little more violence than what I would have been necessary. It's a movie with a great story and if had a little more direction with the scenes it could be really good. From there I went on to Dokki in an attempt to sea AlaaCandace,DC and Dina and 3am Mohamed. I was a bit later than I expected to go so the only ones there I knew were Alaa and Amed. Both of them are really nice but saying hi them but, they had work to get to, so I didn't stay long. I moved on to Garden City where I met [uo with Basma, Abir and Noha. We went to Costa for dinner and coffee and then walked around for a while. Noha got tired so Basma and I took her and Abir home and went to go get icecream for el abd. We almost arrived there before we realized that we didn't actually want icecream so we turned around. I spent the night at Basma's house which involved absolutely no sleeping. We stayed up until 7 this morning talking. At 7, I rushed back to Mohandessein to play tennis one last time and Basma finally went to sleep. The tennis was fun. I gave the boys some old rackets and tennis shoes we had in the apartment and they were really happy with them. I finally beat Coach Gamal, a very hard feat because of his strong tendency toward changing the score in his favor when he is losing. I am not so sure that my ability to beat him now stems from my personal improvement or a lessening of the cheating from his side. Basma and I were going to catch the 11 o'clock bus from AUC's current campus to AUC's new campus to check it out so I showered quickly and left my house around 10. When I called Basma's house it turned out she's still sleeping, quite logical I suppose so I just came and sat here on the AUC campus using the internet. I'm planning on meeting Laura around 1 anyway since we haven't seen each other in a while.
At the beginning of the semester, if I wanted to go to Tahrir Square, I'd go to the busstop by my house, sit on bus 102 and pay 50 piastres to be dropped off right in the square. Sinc ethe gas prices rose though they have changed the starting point of bus 102 to a little before the busstop by my house. Now the buses cost 1 pound and come to our busstop already bursting full. Today was particularly bad...wow...we were quite literally stuffed in like pickles. That along with the 26 hours without sleep I've spent so far led to one very hard to handle bus ride. I just about collapsed when I arrived at AUC. I've fallen into a momentary doze three times while writing this post.
Like I said though, it's all worth it. Mentally I'm not tired at all. I'm still as ready as ever to see all of my friends here and so I'll put off the sleep to a time when there aren't so many great things to do while awake.
Posted by ayah at 3:24 AM
visits galore (originally published July 15, 2008)
Today was jam-packed. I'm so tired I can hardly keep my eyes open yet I'm writing this post anyway...don't bother trying to understand my logic.
Yesterday night I started looking at class options for next semester. I already signed up for courses a few months ago but, I no longer want to take Neuroscience, so I was looking at what alternatives were open. That led me to look at the requirements for all the majors I possibly could be interested in. After looking at the requirements for about 15 majors, I'm still thinking Global Studies, Global Systems and Issues track is for me. I'm not sure still about double majoring or minoring in Spanish, Political Science, Economics, Sociology or something else. Anyway, I got nowhere near close to making all the decisions I still want to make but decided to go to bed at around 4. I somehow still woke up on my own at 8:30 this morning.
I don't know what possessed me to do so but I decided when I woke up then after 4 and a half hours of sleep to go play tennis, something I haven't done in over a month because of our almost non-stop travels. Again, I don't know what I was thinking but I rolled out of bed, got dressed and left...no breakfast...no water...I didn't even wash my face. 15 minutes of playing and I was so nauseated I could hardly stand up. I told my opponent I was going to have to quit before I fainted. I sat down for a while and drank the soda the coach guy got me (he always insists on getting me soda while playing tennis...I don't get it). After about another twenty minutes I was fun and finished playing. I was much more tired than usual on my walk home though. I guess that's what I get for abandoning the game for so long. It's hard for me to get motivated to go play here though. Tennis in Egypt and particularly in the club I play at is a very male-dominated sport. In all the times I've gone (during the school year I went three times a week) I've never seen another female on or anywhere near the court. None of the people I play ever hit with other girls and so they seem to take any point I win personally. I watch the other guys play with each other and they play differently. They get more into the game and get this competitive spirit. With me it's not the same. I always feel like I'm disturbing some kind of rhythm when I go. I guess going to play isn't as appealing an option for me here since, not only do I have to play, but I also have to work to understand the culture around tennis here in Egypt. One of the hardest things to adjust to was the ball boys. I never know whether or not I should pick the ball up if it's closer to me than him or let him sprint around all over the place. Ah, whatever...a couple more days and I'll be back to the nice, easy to understand tennis world of Fargo, ND. ha.
So, I got back from tennis around 11, showered and went back out. Our original plan was to to stop by AUC to pick some things up, go to a movie and then go on a visiting binge. As it happened, Kareem fell asleep on the way to AUC so, I waited for two hours in the car with him while my parents finished what they had to do at AUC. They had taken longer than expected so there was no longer time for the movie. We went straight to Heliopolis to say goodbye to my paternal grandparents. My grandfather is pretty sick right now so it was kind of sad. After about an hour at the grandparents we drove over to Medinat Nasr to say goodbye to my parents' best friends. That was also sad because, since they're moving to Georgia and we're going back to Fargo, we don't know when we'll get to see them again. From there we went to Ein Shams to say hello to my first host family (which I stayed with for five weeks) from last summer. When I came last summer, their oldest son Ahmed had just returned from a year in the United States. He was having a really hard time adjusting to being back in Egypt so the whole family was tense. When I saw them today they all seemed to be in much better spirits, talking and laughing together, which was nice to see. The thing is, when I try to remember what it was like, how I felt last summer, I can't. at all. I don't remember how I interacted with the family at all. They kept saying things about how I acted or what I did and nothing seemed familiar. I wonder if maybe part of the reason I had a hard time adjusting with them was my own attitude. I'm not sure because I honestly don't remember it but the family wasn't at all how I remembered it. They were nice and talkative and stuff. I don't know. From their house we continued on to Zamalek to see my second host family who I stayed with during my last week in Egypt last summer. I really enjoyed my time there. When I came last summer, their younger daughter Kout was just leaving for the US and their older daughter Dina was in Turkey so I didn't really get to know either of them. This time both of them were there as well as Tant Nashwa and Julia, a girl they are hosting this year. I love Tant Nashwa so much and Dina and Kout were both so nice and friendly. I really enjoyed talking with them. The visits to both my host families were great; I truly feel ashamed that I didn't call them earlier in my stay.
I just came home now and I am, once more, about ready to faint. I don't know why I took the time to write this really. I agreed with one of the ballboys Mohy to play tomorrow at eight and this time I want to eat breakfast before I go so I need to wake up in another six hours. Yikes! I would just cancel but Mohy is my favorite ballboy and, I saw him hitting with Ahmed - another ballboy, and he's gotten really good. Besides, this may be my last chance to play him. Posted by ayah at 3:30 PM
Yesterday night I started looking at class options for next semester. I already signed up for courses a few months ago but, I no longer want to take Neuroscience, so I was looking at what alternatives were open. That led me to look at the requirements for all the majors I possibly could be interested in. After looking at the requirements for about 15 majors, I'm still thinking Global Studies, Global Systems and Issues track is for me. I'm not sure still about double majoring or minoring in Spanish, Political Science, Economics, Sociology or something else. Anyway, I got nowhere near close to making all the decisions I still want to make but decided to go to bed at around 4. I somehow still woke up on my own at 8:30 this morning.
I don't know what possessed me to do so but I decided when I woke up then after 4 and a half hours of sleep to go play tennis, something I haven't done in over a month because of our almost non-stop travels. Again, I don't know what I was thinking but I rolled out of bed, got dressed and left...no breakfast...no water...I didn't even wash my face. 15 minutes of playing and I was so nauseated I could hardly stand up. I told my opponent I was going to have to quit before I fainted. I sat down for a while and drank the soda the coach guy got me (he always insists on getting me soda while playing tennis...I don't get it). After about another twenty minutes I was fun and finished playing. I was much more tired than usual on my walk home though. I guess that's what I get for abandoning the game for so long. It's hard for me to get motivated to go play here though. Tennis in Egypt and particularly in the club I play at is a very male-dominated sport. In all the times I've gone (during the school year I went three times a week) I've never seen another female on or anywhere near the court. None of the people I play ever hit with other girls and so they seem to take any point I win personally. I watch the other guys play with each other and they play differently. They get more into the game and get this competitive spirit. With me it's not the same. I always feel like I'm disturbing some kind of rhythm when I go. I guess going to play isn't as appealing an option for me here since, not only do I have to play, but I also have to work to understand the culture around tennis here in Egypt. One of the hardest things to adjust to was the ball boys. I never know whether or not I should pick the ball up if it's closer to me than him or let him sprint around all over the place. Ah, whatever...a couple more days and I'll be back to the nice, easy to understand tennis world of Fargo, ND. ha.
So, I got back from tennis around 11, showered and went back out. Our original plan was to to stop by AUC to pick some things up, go to a movie and then go on a visiting binge. As it happened, Kareem fell asleep on the way to AUC so, I waited for two hours in the car with him while my parents finished what they had to do at AUC. They had taken longer than expected so there was no longer time for the movie. We went straight to Heliopolis to say goodbye to my paternal grandparents. My grandfather is pretty sick right now so it was kind of sad. After about an hour at the grandparents we drove over to Medinat Nasr to say goodbye to my parents' best friends. That was also sad because, since they're moving to Georgia and we're going back to Fargo, we don't know when we'll get to see them again. From there we went to Ein Shams to say hello to my first host family (which I stayed with for five weeks) from last summer. When I came last summer, their oldest son Ahmed had just returned from a year in the United States. He was having a really hard time adjusting to being back in Egypt so the whole family was tense. When I saw them today they all seemed to be in much better spirits, talking and laughing together, which was nice to see. The thing is, when I try to remember what it was like, how I felt last summer, I can't. at all. I don't remember how I interacted with the family at all. They kept saying things about how I acted or what I did and nothing seemed familiar. I wonder if maybe part of the reason I had a hard time adjusting with them was my own attitude. I'm not sure because I honestly don't remember it but the family wasn't at all how I remembered it. They were nice and talkative and stuff. I don't know. From their house we continued on to Zamalek to see my second host family who I stayed with during my last week in Egypt last summer. I really enjoyed my time there. When I came last summer, their younger daughter Kout was just leaving for the US and their older daughter Dina was in Turkey so I didn't really get to know either of them. This time both of them were there as well as Tant Nashwa and Julia, a girl they are hosting this year. I love Tant Nashwa so much and Dina and Kout were both so nice and friendly. I really enjoyed talking with them. The visits to both my host families were great; I truly feel ashamed that I didn't call them earlier in my stay.
I just came home now and I am, once more, about ready to faint. I don't know why I took the time to write this really. I agreed with one of the ballboys Mohy to play tomorrow at eight and this time I want to eat breakfast before I go so I need to wake up in another six hours. Yikes! I would just cancel but Mohy is my favorite ballboy and, I saw him hitting with Ahmed - another ballboy, and he's gotten really good. Besides, this may be my last chance to play him. Posted by ayah at 3:30 PM
So I went (originally published July 14, 2008)
I did decide to go. It was actually pretty fun...a lot better than last time. I spent most of Thursday regretting my decision to go but I was over that by nighttime when I went out with my parents to buy some fans. On the way we saw, among other things, sneakers marked with the Mcdonalds 'M' for a brand, a car full of guys: 6 inside and 4 on top, a little girls' toy on which was written 'for playing pleasure with you' and the Egypt McDonalds' slogan 'Everything but the Combo'. I've been confused by that slogan since I came to Egypt but finally I realized that it is a translation from the similar phrase 'koloh ila el combo' in Arabic. It makes sense in Arabic, meaning roughly 'Take Everything but the Combo'. In English, not so much.
Saturday was good, just a beach day. You'd be amazed at how many people wearing a niqab (full body covering) are in the water in 3agamy. Other people just wear training suits or their normal clothing. Some wear long underpants under their swimming suits. My mom loves that about the beaches. You don't have to care about what you look like at all; you can just enjoy the swimming. Of course, a few days later when we saw a couple girls in bikinis on the beach it became very clear that, even in 3agamy, appearance matters, just in a different way than on the beaches in the United States. The lifeguard on Saturday was going a little crazy with the whistle. According to him the only safe area to swim was the approximately 25 foot by 25 foot square directly in front of him. Seeing as this was Hanovil beach in July that equaled a lot of people in a very small area and, when you mixed that with the waves, that equaled a lot of elbows in eyes. It was all worth it for the waves though. I love wavy water.
Sunday was great. We drove a couple dozen kilometers over to Alexandria, the first time I've been there since I was in diapers. We met up with my parents' tour guide friend Romany at the library of Alexandria. I was amazed at the functionality of design of the library. Among other things, the windows are made in such a way as to let natural light in without letting in direct sun rays, the echo-absorbing slits in the walls double as tributes to the old library of Alexandria and the large library has a capacity of 10 million books as our tour guide Randa told us. For all that functionality, the library really isn't being put to good use. On the lowest floor there is a giant printing press, the fastest in the world or something like that of which there are only three copies. My dad asked what the printing press is being used for. Randa gave us a variety of answers, none of them really belonging to the question indicating that the press really isn't used at all. The 10 million book capacity I mentioned? Only six percent of it is being used. Should you like to read one of those 600,000 books though, you'd have to pay the 2-20 gineh (depending on who you are) entrance fee to the library every time you want to read a couple pages, as none of the library's books are available for check out. The library also has about 150 computers equipped with remarkably high speed internet access. We were there at a prime time (around 3 in the afternoon) yet only about 20 of the computers appeared to be in use, maybe since most Alexandria residents aren't willing to pay the 2 pound fee every time they want to go to the library. There are some things they are doing right though. The volumes of historical/archaeological/artistic works that the library has archived and digitized are available online to the general public. Although that seems obvious, a very similar database of information collected as a part of the Egyptian government's Cultnet project is only available at a center in the Smart Village in the outskirts of Cairo. Cultnet has collected great information so it's sad to see that it isn't available to the majority of people. I was glad to see that isn't the case with the Library of Alexandria's databases. Overall, I was glad I went (and not just because of the free internet access). After the library Romany's wife and children met up with up with us at the fish restaurant Rakoda. I really liked it which is a lot coming from a fish-hater like me. If you're ever in Alexandria I'd recommend it; It's on the Corniche on the right, a little bit after the library.
I wasted most of Sunday morning sleeping. In the evening we went to go visit my mom's aunt and cousins who were also vacationing in the area. Somehow conversation turned to doctors during childbirth. My mom's cousin's husband Naser, a gynecologist himself, started talking about how - when it comes to serious things in medicine, especially women's medicine - only male doctors could fix things. All of the other women in the room didn't seem to find that statement offensive, even his wife (my mom's cousin), also a gynecologist. My mom and I shared a short little glance and decided to take this one up. I started by asking him if he was sure that there wasn't a single female doctor who was good with women's issues. He said yes, they just aren't as level-headed...My mom's other cousin (not his wife) piped up that in America they aren't supposed to say things like that, so Naser said, "oh..then what are you supposed to say?". My mom's (male) cousin piped up, "What. Do you think men and women are the same or what?". My mom told Naser it might be more accepted to say something more like, 'over the course of my career the best gynecological surgeons I've encountered have been male.' Naser replied, 'yes, but, it's across the board, not just me.' I already could hardly contain my laughter but then he continued, ''but I'm not saying women are worse. They are the best cooks!''. At that point I lost it. I burst out into long and loud laughter. In my defense, I really thought he was joking. He wasn't...that led to a nice awkward silence. I had much more I would have liked to say on the subject, but y mom swiftly changed the course of conversation from there. We later landed on women who wear the niqab, another hilarious conversation. My mom's cousins live in Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, more conservative countries than Egypt. They were talking about their difficulties with telling their friends who wear the niqab apart. They just had so many funny stories about getting confused/tricking their friends because of a niqab. It was just so, so funny to hear them tell their stories. The question I've had for a long time came up: how do little kids tell which one is their mom? I really want to know the answer to that. If you know, please share.
Today (technically yesterday I suppose) we got up, ate, cleaned the apartment, packed and came back to Cairo. We then unpacked and promptly packed again, this time for Fargo. I feel so strange when I think about Fargo. Cairo feels like home now and so it will be strange to go back to my house in Fargo. I was registering for a tennis tournament today and I realized I forgot my USTA (United States Tennis Association) number, something I've had memorized since I became a USTA member in 2000. Later, I was e-mailing someone at home my cell-phone number and then realized that I'd forgotten it. I honestly don't know how that happened. I'd remembered up until a couple weeks ago but today I had to email another friend to find out what it was.
Just a few more visit-packed days and I'll be on an airplane.
Posted by ayah at 6:52 PM
1 comments:
B a s m a said...
i wish i could have been there to laugh in that idiot gyno's face, that story reminds me of the guy we saw in the documentary on the first woman marriage counselor in egypt, remember that guy?
haha thanks for your comment i'm not perishing yet though.
see you soon!
July 15, 2008 10:18 AM
Saturday was good, just a beach day. You'd be amazed at how many people wearing a niqab (full body covering) are in the water in 3agamy. Other people just wear training suits or their normal clothing. Some wear long underpants under their swimming suits. My mom loves that about the beaches. You don't have to care about what you look like at all; you can just enjoy the swimming. Of course, a few days later when we saw a couple girls in bikinis on the beach it became very clear that, even in 3agamy, appearance matters, just in a different way than on the beaches in the United States. The lifeguard on Saturday was going a little crazy with the whistle. According to him the only safe area to swim was the approximately 25 foot by 25 foot square directly in front of him. Seeing as this was Hanovil beach in July that equaled a lot of people in a very small area and, when you mixed that with the waves, that equaled a lot of elbows in eyes. It was all worth it for the waves though. I love wavy water.
Sunday was great. We drove a couple dozen kilometers over to Alexandria, the first time I've been there since I was in diapers. We met up with my parents' tour guide friend Romany at the library of Alexandria. I was amazed at the functionality of design of the library. Among other things, the windows are made in such a way as to let natural light in without letting in direct sun rays, the echo-absorbing slits in the walls double as tributes to the old library of Alexandria and the large library has a capacity of 10 million books as our tour guide Randa told us. For all that functionality, the library really isn't being put to good use. On the lowest floor there is a giant printing press, the fastest in the world or something like that of which there are only three copies. My dad asked what the printing press is being used for. Randa gave us a variety of answers, none of them really belonging to the question indicating that the press really isn't used at all. The 10 million book capacity I mentioned? Only six percent of it is being used. Should you like to read one of those 600,000 books though, you'd have to pay the 2-20 gineh (depending on who you are) entrance fee to the library every time you want to read a couple pages, as none of the library's books are available for check out. The library also has about 150 computers equipped with remarkably high speed internet access. We were there at a prime time (around 3 in the afternoon) yet only about 20 of the computers appeared to be in use, maybe since most Alexandria residents aren't willing to pay the 2 pound fee every time they want to go to the library. There are some things they are doing right though. The volumes of historical/archaeological/artistic works that the library has archived and digitized are available online to the general public. Although that seems obvious, a very similar database of information collected as a part of the Egyptian government's Cultnet project is only available at a center in the Smart Village in the outskirts of Cairo. Cultnet has collected great information so it's sad to see that it isn't available to the majority of people. I was glad to see that isn't the case with the Library of Alexandria's databases. Overall, I was glad I went (and not just because of the free internet access). After the library Romany's wife and children met up with up with us at the fish restaurant Rakoda. I really liked it which is a lot coming from a fish-hater like me. If you're ever in Alexandria I'd recommend it; It's on the Corniche on the right, a little bit after the library.
I wasted most of Sunday morning sleeping. In the evening we went to go visit my mom's aunt and cousins who were also vacationing in the area. Somehow conversation turned to doctors during childbirth. My mom's cousin's husband Naser, a gynecologist himself, started talking about how - when it comes to serious things in medicine, especially women's medicine - only male doctors could fix things. All of the other women in the room didn't seem to find that statement offensive, even his wife (my mom's cousin), also a gynecologist. My mom and I shared a short little glance and decided to take this one up. I started by asking him if he was sure that there wasn't a single female doctor who was good with women's issues. He said yes, they just aren't as level-headed...My mom's other cousin (not his wife) piped up that in America they aren't supposed to say things like that, so Naser said, "oh..then what are you supposed to say?". My mom's (male) cousin piped up, "What. Do you think men and women are the same or what?". My mom told Naser it might be more accepted to say something more like, 'over the course of my career the best gynecological surgeons I've encountered have been male.' Naser replied, 'yes, but, it's across the board, not just me.' I already could hardly contain my laughter but then he continued, ''but I'm not saying women are worse. They are the best cooks!''. At that point I lost it. I burst out into long and loud laughter. In my defense, I really thought he was joking. He wasn't...that led to a nice awkward silence. I had much more I would have liked to say on the subject, but y mom swiftly changed the course of conversation from there. We later landed on women who wear the niqab, another hilarious conversation. My mom's cousins live in Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, more conservative countries than Egypt. They were talking about their difficulties with telling their friends who wear the niqab apart. They just had so many funny stories about getting confused/tricking their friends because of a niqab. It was just so, so funny to hear them tell their stories. The question I've had for a long time came up: how do little kids tell which one is their mom? I really want to know the answer to that. If you know, please share.
Today (technically yesterday I suppose) we got up, ate, cleaned the apartment, packed and came back to Cairo. We then unpacked and promptly packed again, this time for Fargo. I feel so strange when I think about Fargo. Cairo feels like home now and so it will be strange to go back to my house in Fargo. I was registering for a tennis tournament today and I realized I forgot my USTA (United States Tennis Association) number, something I've had memorized since I became a USTA member in 2000. Later, I was e-mailing someone at home my cell-phone number and then realized that I'd forgotten it. I honestly don't know how that happened. I'd remembered up until a couple weeks ago but today I had to email another friend to find out what it was.
Just a few more visit-packed days and I'll be on an airplane.
Posted by ayah at 6:52 PM
1 comments:
B a s m a said...
i wish i could have been there to laugh in that idiot gyno's face, that story reminds me of the guy we saw in the documentary on the first woman marriage counselor in egypt, remember that guy?
haha thanks for your comment i'm not perishing yet though.
see you soon!
July 15, 2008 10:18 AM
good old family (originally published July 9, 2008)
Yesterday was cool. I picked up my Egyptian national ID card with surprisingly little trouble. Other than that I look like a 7-year old after drinking caffeine for the first time, the picture's not bad. I went to cut my hair but then chickened out on the cutting part and just got it straightened and then headed to Basma and Abir's. We walked around Zamalek. It was fun. We talked a lot about basketball shorts.
I'm not at all sure why but I stayed up yesterday until 6:45 this morning, a few minutes after my mom woke up. Sleeping in is really not something people do in my house so my waking up at 11:00, the latest I've gotten up in years, sort of messed up the rhythm of the house. Needless to say I was tired. About 10 minutes after I woke up my uncle Amr, his wife Samaha nd my cousin Jena came over followed shortly by my mom's cousin Tant Hanan. I didn't really sit with them; I fed Koko instead. When Tant Hanan left we went over to my other grandparents' house in Masr el Gadida to say hi and pick up my dad. The first thing that my grandma said to me was 'enty zedty hna fe masr msh kda?' (you've gained weight here in Egypt, haven't you?') Things like that don't normally bother me; I can't even count how many times I've been told I'm fat while I've been here. This time I was kind of irked though. I haven't gained weight in Egypt; I've actually worked really hard to lose a lot of it. I didn't know what to say so I just kinda looked at my mom to save me but she didn't hear so she asked my grandma to repeat. This time my grandma said, "I'm just saying Ayah's gained weight here hasn't she? You and Ahmed (my dad) have lost weight, but she..." I don't know why but hearing it again really hurt me. My mom noticed my downcast face and covered for me but my grandma still made a big deal of how she'd made me sad and stuff. Immediately afterward she served us lunch as she always does when we visit her and, as always, she insisted vehemently that we eat portions of food better suited for a hyena than a human. Normally, I give in and try to agree to eat some of the things she offers me but this time I felt no obligation to do so. I ate a spoonful of the spinach and two fries and refused to eat anything else. I told her I wasn't hungry since I'd eaten breakfast late, which was actually true. I mean, if she's going to call me fat she can't expect me to stuff my face.
My mom's aunt tant Moshira and cousins Ranya, Dina and Ahmed were supposed to come over with their children at around 6 so we rushed home, arriving at around 7. They weren't there and didn't come until around 8:30. I was supposed to meet Basma and Abir at their house to go to this concert/stand-up event thing at the cultural wheel at 9:00 but, since I had to say hi to my family before leaving I called them to tell them to meet me at the culture wheel instead. Noha answered and told me they weren't there and when I called back at 9 nobody answered so I figured they'd forgotten/decided not to go. As it turns out, Noha lied. They were home but she's just mad at them/me for not letting her come with us yesterday when we went out. Thanks for that, Noha. It was alright though. I had a good time with my family; the ones who came are my favorite branch of it. It was crazy to see how much my cousins (second cousins?) have grown. We had a little circus going on in our house for a while. Kimo had a blast showing all the little kids (all 9 of them) his toys.
My family is going to Alex tomorrow and, as of yet, I still haven't decided if I'll go too. If I stay, my uncle and his wife will stay with me...I don't want to go but I'm not sure yet...oo decisions. :P
Sorry this was kind of whiny...not the best of days.
Posted by ayah at 2:42 PM
and I thought Egypt was bad! (originally published July 8, 2008)
The police corruption in Morocco is ridiculous. We got stopped 3 times by the police blatantly asking for very large bribes to not give us tickets and saw the same happen to plenty of other people. It was crazy. The first time my dad didn't really get what the guy wanted so he explained in perfectly plain terms. Either you can pay me 400 dirhams here or I'll take your license and you can pay 700 dirhams at the government office to pick it up. My dad managed to talk his way out of giving one of the guys anything and bargained with the other two to bribes of only 200 dirhams (~27 dollars). One of the times it wasn't actually the officer who stopped us who was getting the money. It was his supervisor sitting in the car on the side of the road; the officer sent my dad over to the supervisor for bargaining.
Other general observations about Morocco:
There are beggars in Morocco. Lots of them. It's hard to walk 10 feet without being approached by them and if you give them any acknowledgment at all they keep on you like a fly. I've been to plenty of other places with beggars but not like there. It's really rather sad. It kind of makes sense that there are more beggars there than Egypt considering that, in general, people appear to be in the same economic state there as here but things there are considerably more expensive.
Things in Morocco are way more expensive than you'd think. Food (even cheap Moroccan food) costs about what it would in the United States. Gas costs about the equivalent of six US dollars a gallon. Bread costs about 10 times what it does in Egypt. Basically the only cheap things are movies. I'm not sure if I mentioned this before, but pirated movies are everywhere. They are sold for the equivalent of about 65 cents, much cheaper than even renting a movie in the United States.
I think I said this before but I don't mind saying it again. It's really refreshing to see how women are treated here. They dress as they want and aren't really harassed on the streets. They do everything men do. I saw a female garbage cleaner, a female taxi driver, plenty of females on motorcycles, female passport control people...all sorts of jobs women can't really take in Egypt.
The cars (including the taxis) are remarkably not bumped and scratched here (also true of Jordan and Tunisia). It was just odd to see after being in Cairo for so long. When I got back to Cairo I was actually kind of shocked to see how banged up all the cars are.
Mobile phone minutes in Morocco as well as Tunisia are significantly more expensive than minutes in Egypt, a fact visibly noticeable in the streets. I saw very few people in both countries using their cell phones and by very few I mean two or three a day. It was truly amazing. As my mom pointed out, mobiles would be a good way for the Egyptian government to tax the rich. Nobody really needs a mobile but people here talk on them incessantly...it couldn't hurt to tax the minutes a little bit and using the taxes to help the less well-off portions of society.
Almost of the hotels we stayed at in Morocco had switches for the lights in the hallways. When you go out, you press the switch and after 10 or 15 minutes it turns off again. Many of the hotels had master switches in the rooms by the doors so that as you're leaving you can turn off all the electricity to your room. Many hotels in Egypt and Tunisia have it so that you have to insert your key card in a little slot by the door to make the electricity work in your room. All of those are great ideas to help save energy, none of which I have ever seen being used in the United States. I read on this trip the book Field Notes From a Catastrophe: Man, Nature and Climate Change by Elizabeth Kolbert. Although Part I of the book is ridiculously boring, chock-full of scientific facts presented in a most un-appealing matter, Part II was marvelously eye-opening. Kolbert writes a lot about the real facts of global warming and what people can and desperately need to do to stop it. She also talks about the international efforts that have been made to try to avert climate change and I was truly astonished by how uncooperative the United States has been in the whole process. I recommend reading it (and skipping Part I).
Posted by ayah at 4:53 PM
Other general observations about Morocco:
There are beggars in Morocco. Lots of them. It's hard to walk 10 feet without being approached by them and if you give them any acknowledgment at all they keep on you like a fly. I've been to plenty of other places with beggars but not like there. It's really rather sad. It kind of makes sense that there are more beggars there than Egypt considering that, in general, people appear to be in the same economic state there as here but things there are considerably more expensive.
Things in Morocco are way more expensive than you'd think. Food (even cheap Moroccan food) costs about what it would in the United States. Gas costs about the equivalent of six US dollars a gallon. Bread costs about 10 times what it does in Egypt. Basically the only cheap things are movies. I'm not sure if I mentioned this before, but pirated movies are everywhere. They are sold for the equivalent of about 65 cents, much cheaper than even renting a movie in the United States.
I think I said this before but I don't mind saying it again. It's really refreshing to see how women are treated here. They dress as they want and aren't really harassed on the streets. They do everything men do. I saw a female garbage cleaner, a female taxi driver, plenty of females on motorcycles, female passport control people...all sorts of jobs women can't really take in Egypt.
The cars (including the taxis) are remarkably not bumped and scratched here (also true of Jordan and Tunisia). It was just odd to see after being in Cairo for so long. When I got back to Cairo I was actually kind of shocked to see how banged up all the cars are.
Mobile phone minutes in Morocco as well as Tunisia are significantly more expensive than minutes in Egypt, a fact visibly noticeable in the streets. I saw very few people in both countries using their cell phones and by very few I mean two or three a day. It was truly amazing. As my mom pointed out, mobiles would be a good way for the Egyptian government to tax the rich. Nobody really needs a mobile but people here talk on them incessantly...it couldn't hurt to tax the minutes a little bit and using the taxes to help the less well-off portions of society.
Almost of the hotels we stayed at in Morocco had switches for the lights in the hallways. When you go out, you press the switch and after 10 or 15 minutes it turns off again. Many of the hotels had master switches in the rooms by the doors so that as you're leaving you can turn off all the electricity to your room. Many hotels in Egypt and Tunisia have it so that you have to insert your key card in a little slot by the door to make the electricity work in your room. All of those are great ideas to help save energy, none of which I have ever seen being used in the United States. I read on this trip the book Field Notes From a Catastrophe: Man, Nature and Climate Change by Elizabeth Kolbert. Although Part I of the book is ridiculously boring, chock-full of scientific facts presented in a most un-appealing matter, Part II was marvelously eye-opening. Kolbert writes a lot about the real facts of global warming and what people can and desperately need to do to stop it. She also talks about the international efforts that have been made to try to avert climate change and I was truly astonished by how uncooperative the United States has been in the whole process. I recommend reading it (and skipping Part I).
Posted by ayah at 4:53 PM
NO, FEDERER, NOOO!!! (originally published July 8, 2008)
Roger Federer lost to Rafael Nadal in this year's Wimbledon final, the longest Wimbledon final in history. I couldn't even watch the match since none of the channels on the TV in our hotel in Fes were showing the match. When I saw the score online though I was actually upset. He was so close to a record-breaking 6 Wimbledon titles in a row. He's still my favorite though.
I also missed Williams day at Wimbledon. Serena and Venus Williams played each other again for the ladies' title. Although it happened before in '99 and '02 it was particularly remarkable this time since both of them have sunk considerably in the rankings in recent years and have just very recently started their climb back into the top 10 . Venus won and the two sisters returned later in the day to win the ladies' doubles title together. I, of course, saw none of it. :(
Posted by ayah at 5:31 PM
I also missed Williams day at Wimbledon. Serena and Venus Williams played each other again for the ladies' title. Although it happened before in '99 and '02 it was particularly remarkable this time since both of them have sunk considerably in the rankings in recent years and have just very recently started their climb back into the top 10 . Venus won and the two sisters returned later in the day to win the ladies' doubles title together. I, of course, saw none of it. :(
Posted by ayah at 5:31 PM
The White House and Marrakech (originally published July 3, 2008)
I don't know why but I've always thought of Morocco in kind of an exotic way. So far I've been surprised by how mundane it actually is. One thing though. In Egypt people refer to hooded galebeyyas as 'Moroccan galabeyyas' and I was surprised at how true that is. About half the women here wear these pointy hooded galabeyyas; I wonder why.
We spent our first night here in Casablanca. We arrived at around 4 pm and then found a hotel and slept until around 8 then went out. We walked around this pedestrian walkway they have there and ate delicious shawerma and ice cream and drank the best orange juice I've had in my life. It was fun. The square we sat in to eat was absolutely packed with people; a lot of them were just people there by themselves, sitting and watching other people. There were also a lot of little boys kicking around soccer balls, a lot of old people getting hit on the head with soccer balls and a LOT of beggars. We bought some really cheap pirated movies too. Most of the movies were in French though. They had the new Sex and the City movie but in French. Casablanca has a very frenchy feel to it. The streets are wide, dirty and cobble-stone just like the streets in Paris. The hotel we were staying in had a guest-use computer with internet in the lobby. I was going to use it to update yesterday but the keyboard is French and it took me way to long to type.
Yesterday morning we went to visit the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca. It's huge and really beautiful. It was finished in 1993 at a cost of half a billion dollars. It can hold 105,000 people for prayer (ahem...100,000 men and 5,000 women). It has the tallest minaret of any mosque in the world and their is a laser that shines from it at night 45km in the direction of Mecca. The mosque itself is the third largest in the world after the mosques in Mecca and Medina. It has tons of local artisan work on it. It's really a spectacular sight. After seeing the mosque we drove to Marrakech. We swam in the hotel pool and then headed out to 'jamaa el fnaa square' - the center of activity in Marrakech. There are snake charmers, story tellers, monkey trainers, man pretending to be women belly dancing, tons of food and drink stalls...The thing about it though is that it doesn't really seem like street performing. Most of the people didn't really have shows, they were just trying to get you to take a picture with/of them so they could ask for money. They didn't really do anything that deserved the money though. The strangest event of the night though: as we were walking by the mosque I saw one of my counselors from Spanish camp. I couldn't believe it. What are the chances that I'd see my Mexican counselor from Spanish camp in Morocco?? The hotel we're staying at here has free wireless although it rarely works. Oh! and here there are tons and tons of motorcycles and mopeds and the amazing thing is that women ride them too. All kinds of women I've seen lots of higab wearing, tank top wearing, niqab wearing women riding motorcyles, a sight I'd never see in Egypt.
I have to go to Rabat now...woohoo!
Posted by ayah at 4:29 AM 0 comments
We spent our first night here in Casablanca. We arrived at around 4 pm and then found a hotel and slept until around 8 then went out. We walked around this pedestrian walkway they have there and ate delicious shawerma and ice cream and drank the best orange juice I've had in my life. It was fun. The square we sat in to eat was absolutely packed with people; a lot of them were just people there by themselves, sitting and watching other people. There were also a lot of little boys kicking around soccer balls, a lot of old people getting hit on the head with soccer balls and a LOT of beggars. We bought some really cheap pirated movies too. Most of the movies were in French though. They had the new Sex and the City movie but in French. Casablanca has a very frenchy feel to it. The streets are wide, dirty and cobble-stone just like the streets in Paris. The hotel we were staying in had a guest-use computer with internet in the lobby. I was going to use it to update yesterday but the keyboard is French and it took me way to long to type.
Yesterday morning we went to visit the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca. It's huge and really beautiful. It was finished in 1993 at a cost of half a billion dollars. It can hold 105,000 people for prayer (ahem...100,000 men and 5,000 women). It has the tallest minaret of any mosque in the world and their is a laser that shines from it at night 45km in the direction of Mecca. The mosque itself is the third largest in the world after the mosques in Mecca and Medina. It has tons of local artisan work on it. It's really a spectacular sight. After seeing the mosque we drove to Marrakech. We swam in the hotel pool and then headed out to 'jamaa el fnaa square' - the center of activity in Marrakech. There are snake charmers, story tellers, monkey trainers, man pretending to be women belly dancing, tons of food and drink stalls...The thing about it though is that it doesn't really seem like street performing. Most of the people didn't really have shows, they were just trying to get you to take a picture with/of them so they could ask for money. They didn't really do anything that deserved the money though. The strangest event of the night though: as we were walking by the mosque I saw one of my counselors from Spanish camp. I couldn't believe it. What are the chances that I'd see my Mexican counselor from Spanish camp in Morocco?? The hotel we're staying at here has free wireless although it rarely works. Oh! and here there are tons and tons of motorcycles and mopeds and the amazing thing is that women ride them too. All kinds of women I've seen lots of higab wearing, tank top wearing, niqab wearing women riding motorcyles, a sight I'd never see in Egypt.
I have to go to Rabat now...woohoo!
Posted by ayah at 4:29 AM 0 comments
I don't quite get it (originally published June 2008)
Sarah Palin is a strong advocate of abstinence education and family values. Bristol Palin, 17 year-old unwed daughter of Sarah Palin, is five months pregnant. When it came time for Sarah Palin to marry husband Todd, she eloped, choosing not to include her family in her marriage.
A $100,000 investigation is currently in progress in order to determine whether Sarah Palin's decision to fire Alaska's Public Safety Commissioner was an abuse of power. Suspicions arose when it surfaced that the Commissioner was fired shortly after refusing to fire a state trooper who happened to have recently gone through a messy divorce with Sarah Palin's sister.
The extent of Sarah Palin's political experience is under two years as governor of, as John McCain put it, the largest state in our union. That largest state is, of course...Alaska. That's not to say she is experienced; As McCain will gladly tell you, she has plenty of experience with the PTA and with selling state planes on Ebay. How about foreign policy experience, you ask? She has been out of the country. Once.
Out of all of the millions of Republicans who live in this country, John McCain selected Sarah Palin as his running mate for the 2008 presidential election.
I'd like to clarify two things. First, I have nothing against Sarah Palin or her daughter as people; I just don't quite understand how McCain would see Palin as an asset to his ticket. Second, I'm not angry with McCain's choice of a running mate; I never wanted him to win.
A $100,000 investigation is currently in progress in order to determine whether Sarah Palin's decision to fire Alaska's Public Safety Commissioner was an abuse of power. Suspicions arose when it surfaced that the Commissioner was fired shortly after refusing to fire a state trooper who happened to have recently gone through a messy divorce with Sarah Palin's sister.
The extent of Sarah Palin's political experience is under two years as governor of, as John McCain put it, the largest state in our union. That largest state is, of course...Alaska. That's not to say she is experienced; As McCain will gladly tell you, she has plenty of experience with the PTA and with selling state planes on Ebay. How about foreign policy experience, you ask? She has been out of the country. Once.
Out of all of the millions of Republicans who live in this country, John McCain selected Sarah Palin as his running mate for the 2008 presidential election.
I'd like to clarify two things. First, I have nothing against Sarah Palin or her daughter as people; I just don't quite understand how McCain would see Palin as an asset to his ticket. Second, I'm not angry with McCain's choice of a running mate; I never wanted him to win.
Just Some Kimo-isms (originally published June 2008)
"No, Teta! Superman is NOT Muslim.""Girls don't know how to play baseball."After asking for the rest of my mom's can of soda, "Well. It's almost gone but a little goes a looong way."
Posted by ayah at 3:39 PM 0 comments
Posted by ayah at 3:39 PM 0 comments
Monday, September 7, 2009
We Went to Neeja (originally published June 30, 2008)
Last week in Marsa Matruh Kimo kept telling me that we were going to 'take a plane to Neeja'. Finally I decided to correct him. "Tu-nisia", I said. He replied, "yes i know..we're going to Neeja". It took a while but finally he understood that the name of the country actually has a to sound in it.
Tunisia is a cool country. There isn't really all that much to see touristically speaking but it has a nice vibe. Although it's 98% Muslim, it's a lot more liberal than the other Muslim countries I've been to. Not many women wear a higab and they seem to be allowed to have any job unlike places like Egypt. Despite the fact that women dress less conservatively here, there is virtually no harrassment in the streets (unlike Egypt). They're also really fashionable here. My mom and I starting noticing this in the airport. We could tell the Egyptians from the Tunisians by how they dressed and wore their makeup. Egyptians try to be fashionable too it's just that they often end up looking tacky. Tunisians are really fashionable. They apply their makeup nicely, cut their hair in cute ways, wear appropriately fitting, chic clothing. Which reminds me, Tunisians seem to be a lot less brand obsessed than Egyptians. In Egypt there are fake brand name products all over the place and walking down the street you see people wearing all sorts of 'Gucci' belts, 'Prada' shirts and 'Chanel' purses. Here that's not really the case. People are comfortable wearing fashionable clothing with no visible brand name.
My dad pointed out to me on our first day here that Tunisia seems a lot less Americanized than other places we've been to. After a while, I realized how right he is. During our stay here I did not see a single McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Chili's or any other American restaurant. This is the first country I've ever been to without seeing a McDonald's. Maybe it's because of the heavy French influence. It's crazy how French everything here is. There are sidewalk cafes everywhere serving crepes and paninis, baguettes are basically the only type of bread people eat, everyone mixes a lot of French into their Arabic while speaking, signs everywhere are written always in French, sometimes in Arabic...Oh..and speaking of Arabic. Their Arabic here is really hard to understand. It hardly even sounds like Arabic in some regions of the country. But back to French
We flew into Tunis and drove to Hammamet on our first day here. Hammamet is basically a resort city. Our hotel had a nice pool, tons of food (all-inclusive...) and clean rooms. Oh..rooms..they didn't have tvs in the rooms. If you wanted one you could get it for 5 dinars a night. I've never seen that in a hotel before. and the bathtub. The bathtub was really high off the ground which ended up being the case at all the hotels we stayed at in Tunisia. When I was getting out the first time I took a shower I was in a rush so I forgot how high it was and smashed my knee against the rim. still hurts. The first night here we just went to the beach for a couple of hours. The second day we swam in the pool in the morning and then drove back to Tunis and walked around the market here for a while. The market, like all the markets we went to in Tunisia, is inside the ancient Medina, a big area surrounded by high walls. After walking around for a while we went to Carthage, an ancient city that was built first by the Carthagians (something like that..) and then destroyed and rebuilt by the Romans and then (mostly) destroyed by vandals. We didn't actually go in but we saw it from outside; it looked pretty neat.
On our third day we drove to Gabes, stopping on the way at Sousse and Sfax. At both Sousse and Sfax we walked around the markets for a while before moving on. We bought some delicious peaches...I don't really remember much else. Our hotel in Gabes was funny. It had doors all over the place. There was the door we entered to get in the room. When you walk through that door you find a hallway. On the left hand side there are two more doors, both of which lead to the same room that contains three beds, two sinks, two closets and a tv. On the right there is a door that has a bathtub and a sink behind it and straight ahead there is a door that has a room with just a toilet in it. It was the oddest set-up ever. On our fourth day in Tunisia we first ate the hotel's breakfast (which consisted of bread and butter and jam...) and then started our day's trek. We went to Matmata which is this town that was built under the rock. It was really cool. We went inside someone's house and got to see how they live and stuff. It was a little strange; as you walk along the road all of the house owners try to wave you in to come look at their homes in the hopes of receiving tips from you. Matmata also served as Luke Skywalker's home planet in the Star Wars movies. I haven't seen them so that wasn't as exciting for me as it was for a lot of other tourists...After Matmata we continued onto Medenine where we saw one of the best preserved Ksars in Tunisia. A ksar is an ancient grain storage thingy with lots of little rooms. All of the rooms at the ksar in Medenine have been converted into souveneir shops and we were the only tourists there when we visited so all of the shop owners were just staring at us. It was cool...After Medenine we continued to Jerba, an island just off the coast. It's really pretty and it has a lot of religious importance. We got there pretty late though so we just ate and walked around for a while before driving back to Gabes to stay at our peculiar hotel for another night. We got there at about 1 am, absolutely exhausted.
On our fifth day (today) we drove back to Tunis, stopping at Kairouan on the way. Kairouan has the Great Mosque, the oldest mosque in North America, built only about 25 years after the start of Islam. My parents were pretty excited for it because apparently they learned a lot about it in history class in Egyptian schools but it was actually kind of disappointing. There was nobody there and all the streets around it were covered in garbage and stuff. It closes at 2 for foreigners (really just Western foreigners) and we were there at about 3. Maybe if we had been there earlier or at a time of prayer it would have been more lively. We also saw a really ancient well in Kairouan that is powered by a camel. Kimo loved that. As we were leaving that little attraction, located in the center of Kairouan's market, we stopped at a shop and bought this sweet shirt for me. When we got back to Tunis we went back to the market here to buy this other sweet shirt for me that we saw on the first day. The first shirt is turquoise and the other is white with turqoise fabric stuff on it. They don't anything alike though and, seeing as the color turqoise is everywhere in Tunisia, I thought I'd take the chance to add a little of the color to my wardrobe. Also, on the first day my mom bought me this bracelet with turquoise beads..now I'll have something to wear it with..ha! We had some time to spare and Tunisia is supposedly famous for henna so I decided to get a henna tattoo. The stuff the guy did the tattoo with wasn't really henna; I'm not sure what it was. Maybe it had some henna in it? Anyway, hopefully whatever he drew it in lasts for a while.
As you can probably tell from the very poor quality of writing in this post, I'm pretty tired from 5 days of hardcore traveling. Nevertheless, I had to take advantage of the free wireless in the hotel here. Tomorrow we wake up bright and early to fly to Casablanca...woohoo!
Posted by ayah at 5:23 PM 0 comments
Tunisia is a cool country. There isn't really all that much to see touristically speaking but it has a nice vibe. Although it's 98% Muslim, it's a lot more liberal than the other Muslim countries I've been to. Not many women wear a higab and they seem to be allowed to have any job unlike places like Egypt. Despite the fact that women dress less conservatively here, there is virtually no harrassment in the streets (unlike Egypt). They're also really fashionable here. My mom and I starting noticing this in the airport. We could tell the Egyptians from the Tunisians by how they dressed and wore their makeup. Egyptians try to be fashionable too it's just that they often end up looking tacky. Tunisians are really fashionable. They apply their makeup nicely, cut their hair in cute ways, wear appropriately fitting, chic clothing. Which reminds me, Tunisians seem to be a lot less brand obsessed than Egyptians. In Egypt there are fake brand name products all over the place and walking down the street you see people wearing all sorts of 'Gucci' belts, 'Prada' shirts and 'Chanel' purses. Here that's not really the case. People are comfortable wearing fashionable clothing with no visible brand name.
My dad pointed out to me on our first day here that Tunisia seems a lot less Americanized than other places we've been to. After a while, I realized how right he is. During our stay here I did not see a single McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, Chili's or any other American restaurant. This is the first country I've ever been to without seeing a McDonald's. Maybe it's because of the heavy French influence. It's crazy how French everything here is. There are sidewalk cafes everywhere serving crepes and paninis, baguettes are basically the only type of bread people eat, everyone mixes a lot of French into their Arabic while speaking, signs everywhere are written always in French, sometimes in Arabic...Oh..and speaking of Arabic. Their Arabic here is really hard to understand. It hardly even sounds like Arabic in some regions of the country. But back to French
We flew into Tunis and drove to Hammamet on our first day here. Hammamet is basically a resort city. Our hotel had a nice pool, tons of food (all-inclusive...) and clean rooms. Oh..rooms..they didn't have tvs in the rooms. If you wanted one you could get it for 5 dinars a night. I've never seen that in a hotel before. and the bathtub. The bathtub was really high off the ground which ended up being the case at all the hotels we stayed at in Tunisia. When I was getting out the first time I took a shower I was in a rush so I forgot how high it was and smashed my knee against the rim. still hurts. The first night here we just went to the beach for a couple of hours. The second day we swam in the pool in the morning and then drove back to Tunis and walked around the market here for a while. The market, like all the markets we went to in Tunisia, is inside the ancient Medina, a big area surrounded by high walls. After walking around for a while we went to Carthage, an ancient city that was built first by the Carthagians (something like that..) and then destroyed and rebuilt by the Romans and then (mostly) destroyed by vandals. We didn't actually go in but we saw it from outside; it looked pretty neat.
On our third day we drove to Gabes, stopping on the way at Sousse and Sfax. At both Sousse and Sfax we walked around the markets for a while before moving on. We bought some delicious peaches...I don't really remember much else. Our hotel in Gabes was funny. It had doors all over the place. There was the door we entered to get in the room. When you walk through that door you find a hallway. On the left hand side there are two more doors, both of which lead to the same room that contains three beds, two sinks, two closets and a tv. On the right there is a door that has a bathtub and a sink behind it and straight ahead there is a door that has a room with just a toilet in it. It was the oddest set-up ever. On our fourth day in Tunisia we first ate the hotel's breakfast (which consisted of bread and butter and jam...) and then started our day's trek. We went to Matmata which is this town that was built under the rock. It was really cool. We went inside someone's house and got to see how they live and stuff. It was a little strange; as you walk along the road all of the house owners try to wave you in to come look at their homes in the hopes of receiving tips from you. Matmata also served as Luke Skywalker's home planet in the Star Wars movies. I haven't seen them so that wasn't as exciting for me as it was for a lot of other tourists...After Matmata we continued onto Medenine where we saw one of the best preserved Ksars in Tunisia. A ksar is an ancient grain storage thingy with lots of little rooms. All of the rooms at the ksar in Medenine have been converted into souveneir shops and we were the only tourists there when we visited so all of the shop owners were just staring at us. It was cool...After Medenine we continued to Jerba, an island just off the coast. It's really pretty and it has a lot of religious importance. We got there pretty late though so we just ate and walked around for a while before driving back to Gabes to stay at our peculiar hotel for another night. We got there at about 1 am, absolutely exhausted.
On our fifth day (today) we drove back to Tunis, stopping at Kairouan on the way. Kairouan has the Great Mosque, the oldest mosque in North America, built only about 25 years after the start of Islam. My parents were pretty excited for it because apparently they learned a lot about it in history class in Egyptian schools but it was actually kind of disappointing. There was nobody there and all the streets around it were covered in garbage and stuff. It closes at 2 for foreigners (really just Western foreigners) and we were there at about 3. Maybe if we had been there earlier or at a time of prayer it would have been more lively. We also saw a really ancient well in Kairouan that is powered by a camel. Kimo loved that. As we were leaving that little attraction, located in the center of Kairouan's market, we stopped at a shop and bought this sweet shirt for me. When we got back to Tunis we went back to the market here to buy this other sweet shirt for me that we saw on the first day. The first shirt is turquoise and the other is white with turqoise fabric stuff on it. They don't anything alike though and, seeing as the color turqoise is everywhere in Tunisia, I thought I'd take the chance to add a little of the color to my wardrobe. Also, on the first day my mom bought me this bracelet with turquoise beads..now I'll have something to wear it with..ha! We had some time to spare and Tunisia is supposedly famous for henna so I decided to get a henna tattoo. The stuff the guy did the tattoo with wasn't really henna; I'm not sure what it was. Maybe it had some henna in it? Anyway, hopefully whatever he drew it in lasts for a while.
As you can probably tell from the very poor quality of writing in this post, I'm pretty tired from 5 days of hardcore traveling. Nevertheless, I had to take advantage of the free wireless in the hotel here. Tomorrow we wake up bright and early to fly to Casablanca...woohoo!
Posted by ayah at 5:23 PM 0 comments
Home Sweet Cairo for a day (originally published June 25, 2008)
I was back in Cairo today. It was great. I met Basma early and we went to fill out some paperwork at AUC and ran into her philosophy professor again. I don't think I've mentioned him before but we run into him basically every time we go to AUC now. He always talks on and on about some random topic. Today it was his troubles with getting money to the sick mother of his son in Iran. He's really actually quite a friendly guy; it's just that any encounter with him is sure to last at least 2o minutes. After our little chat we went to get fiteer from the place by Greek campus on Falaky street. It's kind of our little ritual because we always used to go during the semester. Fiteer is fried dough that is served with honey or sugar usually, kind of like a crepe. It tasted so good when we first got it but now, especially because of the summer heat, it's kinda lost its magic. We still get it though because it's tradition. :D After fiteer we went to Costa to escape the heat for a while. After spending about a half hour trying to get their free wireless to work (we ultimately failed), I went over to the Greek campus to ask my mom something quickly and I ran into Laura! It was terrific. Basma left to get ready for her cousin's wedding and I hung out with Laura a bit. We had some fun times trying to figure out how to make her new cell phone function properly. It was good to catch up with her again; I can never get enough of Laura. :D
After I left Laura to tackle her mounds of ALI (Arabic Language Institute) homework, I headed over to Arkadia mall to meet Mona and Maha, my cousins. We walked around for a while. A lot of the stores have neon green and yellow shirts. My cousins pointed that out to me...it's crazy...yellow and green are everywhere. The sisters I met in Marsa told me they noticed that too...everyone is wearing yellow and green. Rahma decided that it must be part of a long-term plan to change the colors of the Egyptian flag...Mona says her aunt thinks that Egypt is just envying Brazil...who knows? At the 2.5 pound store I bought a wind up truck for Kimo. On the package it said "LORDLY FOR FRESHLY NOTION" in one of those big stars that usually says something like "New and Improved" or "Sleek new design" in it. If anyone has any clue what lordly for freshly notion is supposed to mean, please, by all means, share. After we were done walking around we sat in this cafe that overlooks the Nile. The view was nice, the drinks: not so much. I got lemon juice that tasted like water with maybe a couple of drops of lemon in it...It said on the menu that it was 8 pounds but the guy charged us 11, saying that the prices had changed since the menu was printed. Considering all of the prices on the entire menu were whited out and had different prices written, I doubt that, but...hey! What could I do? While we were sitting a couple came and sat at the table next to us. As soon as she sat down the woman pulled a small furry white dog out of her purse. Yes. That's right..out of her purse, Paris Hilton style. The guy then proceeded to take a very long series of pictures of 'Pooky'. It was hard not to laugh.
I needed to give the taxi driver on the way home 7 pounds but the smallest change I had was 20. He didn't have change so I went to the stores around to see if anyone could give me change for my 20. It took me about 6 or 7 minutes and 8 stores to finally find one that had change. It's crazy how hard it is for people to give you change here. It's really common for even big stores to not have change for you when you buy something. I had the same problem this morning. I bought a recharge card for my phone for 10 pounds and gave the woman a 50. She left the store and came back around 5 minutes later with my change. About the only people who have change on a regular basis are the microbus drivers after they've been working for a few hours and the metro station.
Now I'm home. It's almost midnight and I have to pack...again. We're going to Tunisia and Morocco for a few weeks, about a week and a half in each country. I'm really excited. If nothing else (which hopefully won't be the case), it's a chance to get the coins from two more countries to add to my coin collection.
Posted by ayah at 3:16 PM 0 comments
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